No it doesn't. That's why I wonder if anyone has been able to do it. I can't find any high-res pictures of the newer boards to compare to mine. I think they all still use the same micro-controller so if I could find where the leads go from the j3 connector, I would think I could hard wire the adapter cable to the appropriate leads on the board.

I tried emailing mike earlier, but it comes back saying undeliverable. I tried mike at bixbystoves .com and at bixbyenergy .com.
I called Bixby and I think I got the right mike's voice mail. I left a message, see if he gets back to me tomorrow.

Try googling Bixby stove parts. I had saved it and checked just now and it looks good.
bad news is the parts you need are expensive. feeder wheel 137.00
main control boards is 734.00
igniter board is 333.00
Talking that kind of money I would get a used one for 1500 on E-bay or just shop around. Lots of people will sell a stove and buy a boat or air conditioner.
Last winter I seen a nice one go for 800.00

I don't need any new electronics for it. Reason I am willing to buy a new feed wheel is this stove is in wonderful shape. There is very little rust anywhere on it and Mechanically and electronically it is perfect. I got this older stove because it was much, much more affordable than 1500.00, it was even less than 800.00 and its in great shape. So if all I need is the feed wheel, it would be well worth it.
So you think the wheel will fit then rona?

mattg889 wrote:


Matt, the general understanding is that Bixby does return calls from its customers, but it might take a day or two. Make sure that your message provides an alternate phone number, preferably a cell phone that you carry everywhere. If they can't reach you on the first try, you might have to call again to trigger another attempt. The one time that I called with a warranty issue, the reply came quickly and favourably. I don't know their policies for email inquiries.

Thinking a bit outside the box, Matt, what's wrong with your feedwheel? Anything that a good local machine shop couldn't tackle?

Yes, I figured that, that's why I'll see if he gets back to me tomorrow...
I was posting because that email addy blume98 told me didn't work.

Well, the feed wheel works with corn, but it has trouble with pellets. I had thought about getting the holes machined, but I would like to get the new model wheel and use that with pellets, but still use the original wheel for corn since that will keep the feed rate right with corn. I think the new wheel would be well worth it, I just want to make sure it fits before buying it. I will just wait to hear from mike and I'll post what he says.

OK, you did mention something to that effect earlier, Matt. Sorry for asking you to repeat. I understand better that you want a way to deliver more pellets per charge (or more consistent pellets per charge) because pellets don't work well with your feedwheel.

Have you tried running with a brand of shorter pellets? Myself, even with my 115 feedwheel, I have trouble with long pellets (up to 1.25" long) but perhaps for a different reason. They break at the drop tube, creating dust that accumulates under the feedwheel that causes a leak that affects the burn. With such long pellets, I need to clean under the feedwheel with almost each hopper load. Switching to shorter pellets (perhaps 0.5") cures the problem.

Thinking outside the box again, what if a removeable overlay was attached to the top side of the feedwheel to effectively deepen the pockets?

hmm, the overlay might help the pellets per charge. but the pellets also seem to get stuck sideways in the holes, plugging them up.
I did find one bag of discontinued pellets at menards that were short, but then they would line up and still plug the holes, haha(plus those bags had a lot of dust too). It's harder than I thought to find a good fuel source.
Anyhow, it seems to me that the holes are just too small.