I would check the thermocouple as how far it is inserted into the exhaust chamber, looks like the recommendation is 1" . My guess if it is not in far enough that might cause the 2-3 lights.

I also have a new 120 serial# 10003 and am burning pellets , and I also have a #2&3 blink code and have tried to adjust but we only run it on #1 because any higher and you have to open the door, I like the stove

normaly 2-3 is running lean, back air of to -1 see what happens, rarely do you run + on exhaust

Stermerfarm, I wouldn't mess with the TC right away. If I did, I'd first mark its insertion depth so that I could return to the same position. If not in far enough, the stove won't detect ignition, and it would shut down soon after the ignition cycle. Because a flame can be maintained, however awkwardly, I wouldn't suspect the TC yet.

Now, about the need to keep the door open. That's not a common solution. Makes me wonder if the stove needs air. If so, that can be provided temporarily and in a safer manner by opening the ash drawer a tad. That still doesn't address ther root cause. It could be blockage in the vent path. Usually, its easier to dial in midrange, near heat level 4.

Stermer...

When you say you have to have the door open...so you mean because it's putting out so much heat??? Or do you mean the actual door on the bixby??

Also what part of the country are you in???

Unless your in a warmer part of the country I just dont get that kind of heat from mine. It has been in the low 30's lately and I have to run it on level 6 to get the basement warmed up (bixby is in basement about 1000 sq ft)??

If you turn the heat up let me know what temps you have and what your level your on would ya?

Blume....really you don't run positive on the exhaust at all??? What are you usually running on your feed and at what level???

i burn a mix of 25% pellets and 75% corn, same settings as before about -2 air plus 1-1/2 on feed, most of my stoves out there run close to this, cut ex back till you get overfill then boost up a little, high air setting gives flashing 2-3 as fuel is being burned too fast, stove is adding extra fuel to overcome this

When I said "door" I should have said the back door (house), we are in up state NY near the Pa. border, we grow 140 arces of corn and we got tired of the mess of burning coal (loved the heet) so when we moved to a new home we went with corn/pellet, the house is about 1500sq.
There has been alot to learn about this new stove.

Now I underderstand, Sterm. I originally thought that you meant the stove's door.

Sounds like your house is rather airtight and that you are running your stove without an outside air kit (OAK). The factory vent configuration of the Bixby stoves includes an OAK in the form of a 5" diam air intake pipe surrounding the separate 3" exhaust. Acts like a heat exchanger, but also ensures that your stove has the air that it needs. I'm on my 8th heating season running this way. Others on the old forum have separated the two. See Belenus' nicely described job here forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8225 .

The advantages and disadvantages of OAKs are described here.
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Consi...tion#Outside_Air_Kit
Sounds like you have a good case for one.

I got a 120 this fall and been playing with it ever since. I use a thermostat and if I set the heat level on 5 it seems to run pretty reliable with my exh and fuel settings. But if I jump it up to 6 or above it will over fuel and eventually fill the pot. I am thinking the original settings are to high. I also have a UBB and LET advised to run the updated program with it as it was a big improvement. I did it as soon as I got the stove and it ran good. but I don't know what settings were changed.
I am just wondering if there was changes with the 120 as well? Just talking to myself but maybe I'll download the software Bixby has listed and see if that makes a difference. If there was a change for the 120 like the UBB it would probably make it run better. I'm not suggesting using the same settings as the UBB because it produces more heat. Just thought of something; On level 6 the UBB produces as much heat as level 8 on a 115 or 120. It can handle that extra fuel as it forces all the air up into the burn pot rather then keeping the large window clean. Maybe this update is needed. I'll play with it later