Hi all. New Bixby has started the dreaded squeal, so preparing to replace bearings. I would like to know what tool people have used to remove the screw near the firewall on the exhaust side of the housing; the one blocked by the exhaust and thermocouple wire. I replaced bearings on Bix number one, and that screw was very difficult to access. Neighbor mechanic loaned me a 1/4 in universal joint and 3" extension bar; it's not easy, but I can turn it slightly w/ that setup.

Thanks in advance!

think we use long extesion with joint

Ya, its a pita. Here are the tools that worked for IDfarmer:
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby...nvection_Fan_Removal

I tried it his way. Perhaps my socket was a bit deeper than his, but it didn't work for me. I remember trying a number of different tool configurations including improvising with the flex shaft of a Dremel set. Each different attempt won me a few fractions of a turn, but not one of them worked great. Wishing you success. Let us know if you figure out a better way, and I'll update the WIKI.

The easiest I have found is put some grease in the socket so the screw doesn't fall out then use a knuckle or swivel right below the socket then a extension and ratchet. Usually I use my right hand turning the extension to start the screw and left using fingers to hold socket on the screw while tightening it. Sometimes it is easy other times not so much fun.
If its any consolation the replacement bearings last longer then most origional ones meaning you will have forgot how to do it by the next time.

Thanks, Rona. Your tip is added to the WIKI at forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby...nvection_Fan_Removal .

I might add it seems I always find something to jab a finger or hand so that goes with the job.

Agreed and revised accordingly

update and more "how to" questions. Replaced bearings today. Have an intermittent metallic chatter which I've not noted before. Not the high pitched squeal associated w/ failing bearings. All fasteners tight; possibly the dust cover/seal on the motor came loose or ??? If it worsens, I'll remove, check, and reinsert.

Suggest that one removes the infamous screw first. The 1/4 drive, universal joint, and 3" minimum extension made that relatively easy. New "how to" questions. What is the correct way to seat the bearings? I press w/ my thumb. Is it safe to gently tap either the old bearing against the new, or use a socket w/ outside diam. approx. the same, and tap that, or ? I had trouble getting one bearing seated such that I could replace the metal spacers and C retaining clip. Is there a relatively easy way to reinstall the retaining clip? I used an 8mm socket, pressed down, and used my leather awl on the open end and finally got it.

Last question: longevity of replacement bearings. Has anyone tried ceramic? Should they last indefinitely? To date I've used NAPA (1.5 - 2 years/ set). Today I used SKF. Have the VBX bearings in reserve.

Thanks all!

I used the old bearing to tap the new ones in correct position never had a problem doing that. Just done a bearing job today and it does get faster if you do it often enough.
Regarding which bearings are best I would suggest high temp bearings with soft seals that you can remove and add some high temp lub if needed.
The origional equipment have metal seals. I tried ceramic bearings and they were dry not lubed so was disappointed with that.
Some people had bearings go bad withing 6 weeks of purchase of stove and I have talked to people that have had their stove 6 years with no problem. Hard to figure out.

I know a stove that has original convection fan bearings in it's sixth season. I know what it's been through in it's testing. I watched it slow down and pick up and squeal slightly as it wore and polished itself. It also sports it's original air filter which gets tapped outside slightly once a month or so. The feeder wheel gasket is about due for replacement. Burn on.