Lets drag up this old thread. forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5431 The saga drags on. But still having fun.

I'm happy to see that Dell-Point listen to the issue with the top plate warping. Getting the stove ready this year I found that the foil gasket failed. Not surprising. So I went out to the shop and rummaged around and found a couple of old header bolts and the old top plate. Drilled a few holes and taped them placed it on top of existing plate and cranked down on the header bolts until no gaps could be seen. So far its been working good and a easy fix.

Hats off to you Jeep
That stove is CLEAN!
Mine has piles of ash inside.
Great fix.
I have an extra top plate as well.
I am going to tap 5/16 holes then screw in 1/2 inch set screws, thread on grade 8 nuts, then spot weld them on.
I was wracking my brain trying to come up with a seal for this problem.
The original patent drawings have 4 bolts!
Lets make it cheaper.
Thanks FPI.
HF

BTW - I straightened and glued the ring with Rutland stove cement during Christmas break. Been running it hard, HR4 400 to 450 pouring out 27/7.

I added some bolts to the extra top plate yesterday.
Could not find the set screws I wanted.
And the metal is plenty thick for threading.
If things work out the shutdown and install will happen today.
HF

Thanks.

Yeah a good cleaning just after a one ton burn. And she was dirty, Next cleaning in a 1/2 ton.


More bolts = more clamping. Get a glove on and sung them while their hot and they should rust in and not move at all.

I want to find an easy way to drill and tap the bottom ring, install a piece of all thread and clamping it all together, Without pulling it all apart. I still have air leaking in and cooling the ash off to fast or superheating it.

With the history of this stove warping top rings, adding 6 more bolts was a quick easy way to improve combustion.
What I had envisioned was using two 3/8 x 3/4 flathead Phillips through the bottom plate, 90 degrees from the original carriage bolts, beveled in to fit flush, with extension nuts to lock the flatheads to the bottom plate, threaded rod screwed into the extension nuts, that extend past the top plate, secured with washer and nut. This might work.
I can't complain yet about how the stove has acted since the change. May have to remove the restrictor plate from the exhaust to run on level 5. The real test will come after we have arctic temperatures.
HF