Corndust, Yooper has the 100k furnace so he would be running a 2 rpm motor, yours for the 165k boiler would be 4 rpm I believe. Your unit also feeds from the rear so the kit looks different but works the same. The clear PVC auger tube is 2 1/2" and you can really use the same settings that you do for corn and just fine tune it the way you need to. The wood pellets are very forgiving and easy to burn with the kit installed compared to corn. Good luck! -CC

My auger tube from the bin is 2 1/2 PVC Conduit. And yes, it is a 2 rpm motor on the bin, 4 rpm for the burn pot. My timer is at 2 on and 8 off. Draft is around .04 to .05 and the combustion blower is 90% open. I do have the 100k furnace. The 165k units require an auger motor change. Nogas might have the specifics for you on this as I believe he has the kit on a 165k unit.

As a side note. Last year I installed the kit and used 100% pellets flawlessly. This year the auger from the bin kept filling up with pellets and jamming. The original bin feed tube from LMF had a short piece of (I believe) 2" pvc inside the feed tube near the bin. I reinserted this and have not had any issues with jamming.

Yooper, Mike at State Line Corn Burners installs a short piece of 2" inside of the 2 1/2" tube for the 165K units if the customer doesn't want to change motors to restrict the feed rate.

That should save about $100.

I called Mike and we talked for about an hour. He didn't mention the "2 inch restriction tube but then again we talked mostly about setup and temp differences of water leaving and coming back to the boiler. It seems there are alot of differences with corn vs pellets due to fly ash. Not sure I want to make all the changes he suggests?? I don't have a problem with corn and keeping the temp of water a constant 160 - 170 degrees 24/7 seems like I'll use a fair amount more of pellets. Are you guys running a primary loop and mixing cold water coming back to furnace/boiler to keep the return water with in 10 degrees of whats in the boiler? If so, do you find you use a lot more fuel running that loop 24/7? In case anyones interested, the conversion kit is about $220 and the 3 RPM motor is $140. Adding in a primay loop and doing it right will be another $400 - $500. 7 years ago I heated my whole house (2600 sqft) and water with corn for less than the all changes added together. Got to love those corn prices!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a primary loop of 1 1/2 black iron pipe. I keep my boiler much hotter, but I am using a water to air ex-changer in the N/G furnace. Mine idles at 190 degrees, and have a heat dump aquastat to the furnace set at 200, so rather than overheating the boiler and it shutting off till it cools, I use the house as a dump zone. My pump to the furnace comes on when I get a call for heat, and when the return line to the primary zone is over 160 degrees, the furnace fan kicks on. That is a 1 1/4 black iron line. I go through about 2 bags of pellets a day, till it gets below mid to upper teens, then I can go thru 3 bags a day. I am also burning my Harman PC45 stove, at a little over a bag a day. Still saves me a ton of money, because I have to pay commercial rates for N/G.

I get about a ten degree drop in my return temps, and if the furnace is on for 10 to 15 minutes, the boiler cools down to 140 to 150, and the furnace fan stops till it's back up over 160.

My set up is similar minus the primary loop so I can see temp swings in the boiler as much as 30 degrees. That usuall only happens when there is a big call for heat. I have a dump zone in my garage. It keeps my garage toastie warm all winter and I burn about 11 tons of corn a season. That's November 15 - march ish time frame. I thought about going black pipe for a primary loop and still haven't ruled it out. Are you using the 3 RPM motor on the bin auger or did you go with the short piece of 2" PVC? How much sq ft do you heat? My house is fairly heat efficient but I tend to go through more fuel than you would think. I have three ladies in my brood that keep the heat at 75 and shower or bath 2x a day. I fought the good fight but I'm out numbered and have since thrown in the towel. How would you rate your homes insulation factor?

I am heating a pre 1880 (some doors and banister would suggest about 1860's) 3 story building. The front addition (1 story) is a dinning room for our restaurant. There is about 2000 sq ft to 1st floor and 2000 sq ft to second and third floor, plus full basement. I use the Harman most of the heating season, and only fire up the boiler December true February, unless we get an early cold spell. There are some new replacement windows on the 3rd floor, but the 2nd floor has the square metal windows with the mesh inside, that screw together to make the full window, and they are leaky. The walls do have some bats of insulation, and the outside is cement stucco.

I got my kit from LDJ, and have the 3 rpm motor. In the past, I would go thru 6 to 8 tons of corn and 4 tons of pellets. Having a commercial building, we have to pay about 40% more on the utilities, so still a lot of savings on heat. I only bought about a 3/4 ton corn to mix a little in with the pellets this year.

You will find the boiler will keep up much better if you have a primary loop. If you have never read the book, PUMPING AWAY by Holohan, check it out. A must read.