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TOPIC: cold 4100

Re: cold 4100 1 year, 2 months ago #15013

  • Skeptic
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I had a hard time measuring the valve opening using the dowel method, but the best i could guess it was about 7/32nds open.

Since I am using this as an insert, the fresh air draw is in the fireplace. I have a ~40 foot chimney and this seems like a long way for the fresh air to travel down. The dealer who serviced the stove when i first got it told me there should'nt be any problems though. And there does not seem to be any problem with the stove getting enough fresh air as it burns clean and fast, just not hot.

The auger is the split kind, i might consider welding that up.

As a note, when i first fill the burn pot to start it, and the burn box is very full, I have a huge blazing fire, and the air coming out is >220f. But this is with a giant fire burning. the flames are pretty much engulfing the heat exchanger tubes. I would not expect to need this level of burn for these temperatures. is this wrong? I want that kind of heat with the stove on 10. I would think it would go through a bag every hour with the amount of fuel it takes to make that fire.

Also, when i cleaned out the tubes, there was tons of rust. it was like birch bark flaking off the stove. Has any tried to repaint the inside of their stove to seal it back up. I might try it this summer with some of that ultra high temp paint. it's gonna be a b#t*! to clean though.

Re: cold 4100 1 year, 2 months ago #15028

  • tfgrower
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Skeptic wrote:
I had a hard time measuring the valve opening using the dowel method, but the best i could guess it was about 7/32nds open.

Since I am using this as an insert, the fresh air draw is in the fireplace. I have a ~40 foot chimney and this seems like a long way for the fresh air to travel down. The dealer who serviced the stove when i first got it told me there should'nt be any problems though. And there does not seem to be any problem with the stove getting enough fresh air as it burns clean and fast, just not hot.

The auger is the split kind, i might consider welding that up.

As a note, when i first fill the burn pot to start it, and the burn box is very full, I have a huge blazing fire, and the air coming out is >220f. But this is with a giant fire burning. the flames are pretty much engulfing the heat exchanger tubes. I would not expect to need this level of burn for these temperatures. is this wrong? I want that kind of heat with the stove on 10. I would think it would go through a bag every hour with the amount of fuel it takes to make that fire.

Also, when i cleaned out the tubes, there was tons of rust. it was like birch bark flaking off the stove. Has any tried to repaint the inside of their stove to seal it back up. I might try it this summer with some of that ultra high temp paint. it's gonna be a b#t*! to clean though.

Skeptic, you had some good info there. Valve opening is about right. I am concerned about fresh air. How large is your chimney hole? If it isn't very large it could be your problem. Your starting fire is great with lots of fresh air but then fades like its starving. A nice hot fire will go into pipes and keep them clean which brings us to the dirty pipes you mention,dirt will insulate heat wether dirty on inside or outside.
I just rerouted my air from an unused chimney to fireplace ash clean out on floor of fireplace to avoid fresh air and exhaust mixing and it was an improvement. My chimney hole was 13 inches square and alittle shorter than yours so if you have a smaller hole than that, I would pipe some fresh air to your stove. I used alittle 2" Genova
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Amaizablaze 4100 insert
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