Well in a way it is eh

hahaha...yep I suppose so.

tfgrower wrote:


I'm only guessing it's somewhat accurate. I got this little electric deep fryer recently and I was testing the fryer, set it to 375 and when the light went out, I hit it with the IR thermometer and it varied a little, but hovered around 375. So it should be close or both the fryer and the thermometer are in cahoots!

I'm not sure on the valve gap, I've been playing with it so much. I'm sure it's less than what yours is set for as that's where I started. Mine didn't close all the way (maybe some warping on the end or not enough PB Blast/lubricant on the threads?) and it closes up to where it's about a few pieces of paper wide as a gap. From there it's 2 full turns open. Seems if I try and turn it 1/2 a turn in or out, temps go down. At this point, I think I'll have to get a control switch as I saw a post from a year ago where someone did that and, while I think he was scanning the heat exchange tubes, he said he got more heat off of them with the Sparta blower running at 3/4 instead of full blast.

Original thread

Probably be some time before it comes in and I'll have to hit Radio Shack up for some quick connect spade connectors.

command_z wrote:


I sift my pellets, just like I used to sift corn. So when I start the stove up, I take the sawdust and pellet pieces that fell through the holes and scoop it into a plastic cup. I get a little shredded paper and put it in the bottom and dump the cup into it (the shredded paper is to allow air up and stop sawdust from falling down). I then take same paper and roll them into tubes about 4" long and stuff them down and light the 4-6 tubes I shoved in there. Tubes burn up, go down to the shredded paper and the whole thing is aflame a few minutes later. Probably not the best method, but it works for me.

Buildup seems to take at least 1/2 day to be even noticeable at all, in the old days before the new blower it would be less than an hour, so I don't think it's how I'm starting it. I'm thinking it's something to do with the airflow inside the burn area and maybe the stuff I'm burning is a little sootier than what you guys are burning.

And yes, it's still the old auger. I'll be darned if I can find that second vise grip. The only thing I can think of is that the full corkscrew auger may be more consistent on feeding (sometimes it'll spit a few pellets or pellet pieces out and sometimes a whole bunch fall out at once, like in the video I posted where a lot fell out at once 20 seconds in and the flame shrunk). I haven't had any issues with the long pellet pieces which I think is due to my feed tube no longer getting any gunk/soot in it. Pellets fall down with a good speed, so even if a piece sits on the divider (only saw this once), the next batch comes flying down and knocks it out of the way.

Drysun Thermometer sounds like a good one . Let's start fresh before you buy anything. Try and forget everything you've done and put stove in original condition. No bottom holes plugged no baffle extention. Take a short 3/16ths allen wrench and put in hole and set in gap of air valve so allen clears gap but not sloppy. Put stove together and light on #3. If you can do it This Pm I'll stay with you for temp readings. and we'll get that dragon breathing some fire.

Thats a clever way to start the fire. I was just thinking that the wax blocks is a large contributer to dirty glass. I either use a propane torch to start a scoop of pellets, or put a scoop of pellets in the pot, douse with rubbing alcohol, light.

drysun This is the guy you bought from

Re: Different multi fuel kit from Sparta 1 year, 1 month ago #11367



brucetowns

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Newbie Burner

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The key to using this properly is controlling the air flow to the burning pot. Adjusting the air flow screw is mandatory. The Amaizablaze is a simple stove, easy to run. The difference between the Amaizablaze and many of the others is how easy or difficult it is to adjust the air. I am currently playing with my 4100 at home with the new kit on it. I am trying to get the air screw adjusted to the air flow for lighting and then am using a rheostat to adjust the air flow down as it gets going so I don't burn the fuel too fast. Make sure it is a rheostat that is designed to control a motor. I am using the same rheostat that controls the room blower fan on the Amaizablaze stove.

Here's a quick view of me re-lighting the pot so command_z can see how I start it up as I decided to try and follow tfgrower's suggestion of starting over with the air screw set to 3/16 using an Allen wrench (that was a great idea). 15 minutes after lighting I turned on my auger.

Here we have some shredded paper as a base with an old 32oz cup filled with loose stuff

Stuffed a wad of hand compressed shredded paper into the pellet chaff

Lit the bundle

Same, just without flash

Few minutes later


And here's a clip of how it burns right after the last pic was taken, let me know if you guys think the flames are bouncing too much (too much air)

tfgrower wrote:


Yup, that's him. He was the one who suggested trying to turn the air screw down more as well, but he also said one could put in some switch, however it would affect the air wash system as well. As you can see above, he said he was going to try that on his own system at home. I should ask him how that turned out, while I'm thinking about it.

Didn't get clip drysun. Let fire get established and take same temps as before. Door, inch above door and stack.
The grinch stold all the videos