i have a snow flame made 1997 and it does not have a air adjustment screw. I read on a old corn forum that some one would send a private message on how to make and /or install one. I would like to know if this info is still available. with no adjuster I feel that too much air is going out the balance tube as i cannot run over #5 on fuel setting.

I can't find or remember that particular discussion on the old site. Maybe someone else will have that info. One thing that you can try is to adjust the air diverter on the back side of the fire pot. It looks like the round knockout from an electrical box. Try closing it up some to reduce the air. Be careful not to break it off though.

sawdust29 wrote:

Is this a positive draft? The combustion motor/fan may have an adjustment limiting the air that enters fan.

I have run a SnowFlame for the last 6-7 years, its a good little unit that just runs with no drama once you get the hang of it.

My friend has a CornFlame, so lots of experience between us.

I made my own air adjuster. I tried messing with bending the tab - my opinion is that tab needs to be where it is to deflect the air, not to limit the air. I'd leave it alone.

I took my angle drill and made a simple centering jig from a piece of wood. Make the wood fit the air hole in the back of the stove, and drill a hole in the center of it. This piece will hold your drill steady and keep it from walking around.

Drill through the back wall. Its thicker than you might think, so be prepared. Pull the room blower fans before doing this.

Now tap the hole for threads. Again, the wall is thicker than it seems, so go slow and use thread cutting lubricant, or you'll break the tap in the hole, and its darn hard to get to.

Next I took a stainless phillips screw about 3" long, and a stainless washer slightly smaller than the air hole, and welded them together leaving the phillips head intact. You'll need the phillips part to install or adjust.

Now just screw the part you just made into the hole you tapped. It will protrude through the wall into the motor electrical compartment. If you did a good job tapping, you may be able to turn this end of it by hand, if not maybe double-nut this end to allow a better grip.

I can get a picture next time I shut it down to clean, though its kinda hard to see once installed.

Another HIGHLY recommended thing to do is run a cast-iron burn pot from a 4100. They were about $100 when I bought mine, and it allows for up to 36 hour burn times between clinker removal. Part P-0077 4100 AZM IBP americasharvestenergy.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&cat=3
And the cast iron is like teflon to clinkers, where I had to dig it out before it slides right out now.


I also copied the burn enhancement kit, I only used the top piece that raises the rear wall up into the exchanger tubes. MAJOR improvement in heat output. Here is a picture of the piece I made, its just normal mild-steel sheet metal and has been used for 5 years now with no degrading.





And yes, all these Buckner style stoves were positive draft, but there is no limit to the air intake.

Great job Stiney! Very useful informantion you just shared with us!

thank you for all the help and advise on making a air adjuster I wasa not clear on what was happening until i looked at the pictures located in the old forum now i understand and will install soon forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=11730