Looks like we are going to be running the Traeger, burning pellets for at least part of the year. I thought I would get the domestic hot water working again. Before, I had these really crappy unions in place. Now I have a couple of copper/brass unions to sweat in place. But, I am wondering if I need a brass or bronze thread to turn into the Traeger, or if I can go straight to copper? I have copper, other would take a trip to the store. (And if I go to the store I am almost sure to buy a Mapp gas torch after having borrowed my neighbors at one point last year. So that would add $40 to the price of any parts. )



Sorry about the dust, I gave the maid the day off...

--ja

The way you have the one on the right is correct - you need those dielectric unions when connecting DHW to the boiler or you will build a battery = leading to electrolysis = making rust....

now would be a great time to back flush the coil inside the boiler with some Muriatic acid. You need to have valves and boiler drains so you can hook a pump up with washing machine hoses and pump the acid through, It get's pumped backwards until it flows easily or 5 minutes, whichever comes first. You always chance eating through the coil, but if you do it was time for a new one anyway. If it doesn't come clean in 5 minutes you can try longer, but the longer the more chance of destruction. It's a fairly dangerous and very stinky job. If you've never done it or seen it done I wouldn't recommend it. Around here to hire it out is about $100.!

The trouble is the union on the right leaks a little, the union on the left leaked a lot. So a copper/brass union isn't going to work?

In that union there should be a rubber washer other wise it will leak. I did a water heater for my Aunt a couple of weeks ago and gave her a shopping list. When I got over there she handed me 2 dielectric unions. One of them someone helped themselves to that washer. Sent her back to the store. I even disassembled the union this weekend to put a water softener in for her and didn't have any issues with leaking. If you just need that washer you can typically pick them up at a plumbing store. Not Home Depot or the like. Atleast not where I live. And be careful there are 2 sizes from my experience.

Binford wrote:


...just pull it out of one of the unions on the shelf...

jabbott wrote:


Typically that is what people seem to do. I have experienced the missing washer thing on more than one occasion.

I was wondering if I put way too much muscle into tightening it down the first time. Maybe I crushed it down too much? I know the rubber washer was in there but they both dripped from the very beginning. Maybe like one drip every minute or two, and the other one less often. But then instead of getting better like sometimes copper sweated joints do, this dripped more and more. Its a bad spot to have to place a bucket.

thats a plan

A little skim coat of pipe dope on the threads and the plastic sleeve that isolates the nut from the flange is also a plus

But back at the original post - you commented you may have tightened too much -- yes you squeezed out the gasket from its seat.

Well, the job is done. (eventually) No leaks!



I had one small leak for a little while. It seemed like the threads between these two were real loose. I put it together the first time with only a couple of wraps of teflon tape, but was able to bottom it out before it really got tight. So, I took it apart and added some more tape. The next time was a little better. This leak went away in a couple of hours.



The real winner of the day was the MAP gas torch I bought. Wow. Way, way better than propane.