I let my Revolution go out after xmas and didnt go get more pellets til Friday. I filled the hopper and lit the furnace. Thought all was well til the wife complained it was a little chilly in the house so I went down to turn up the heat. No fire! I restarted figuring maybe there just wasnt enough in the auger to cycle and start properly. Restarted and went back up stairs and thenext morning (today, I went down to see why the chill and the fire pot was full with half burned pellets. Although I cleaned the furnace when we ran it out so had no issue there, I cleaned the pot and restarted, got a little flame and it went out and pot filled. I went through the procedures,including another complete cleaning today. Now I cant even get a spark from the ignighter. I have checked the combution fan, its seems to be working ok, Tried setting the draft and trim but still no spark or sign fire. Burn pot fills and goes into a flashing mode, #3 to be exact which is of course a P.O.F. indicator. Obviously no fire at all. The last tingI tried was to take the cover off the front to see the ignighter wires and they seemed to be loose in the poreolin block they go into and oneof the terminals are completely black. I tried to tighten the terminal screws but didnt force theissue too much. My question is "has anybody else had to change an ignighter or is there something I missed? Only other thought is the control board has gone bad. Been cleaned teice today and even gave it a spring and fall type cleaning and fire. Any ideas?

Can you start the stove manually?

doubt its ur igniter try bypassing ur pof sensor by jumping it! its more than likley that?

from what you have said with the blackened terminal and porcelin i would say your igniter is bad its not you pof because it is working setting a #3 code

Still working on it . I dont recall how to bypass the P.O.f. Hey Tallcorn how would I start it manually Is there a way to test the ignighter with a meter. Not real up on meters but might try it. Still needing help. Getting good clues so far. Still loading up this morning. I had hoped that by unplugging it all night it might reset itself. I am doen to the conclusion of either the control board or ignighter. Pot still fills with no Fire.

Igniter
Cartridge Heater – A Hot Rod heating element used in the process of igniting the
pellets during the start-up cycle.
As an electrical component, the troubleshooting of the Igniter can be broken down to a
defective Igniter, a defective control board, or issues related to the wiring. The igniter
should always come on during the start-up cycle of the stove to light the pellets.
However, if the High Limit Switch is tripped the Igniter and Auger will not come on,
preventing the stove from lighting.

Check the wiring connections to the Igniter. The 2 wires from the Igniter
connect to a White wire in the harness and a Red wire in the harness. If
all connections are tight, check for Voltage at the Red wire.
Attention: The control board sends power to the blowers for the first 30 seconds
after turning the stove on and then the convection fan shuts off. At this point the
stove will go into the start-up cycle and the auger feeds pellets for 2 minutes and the
Igniter comes on. The igniter will run at least 5 minutes and/or shut off when the
Proof of Fire switch locks in.

If there isn’t any voltage at the Red wire, check to make sure the Red wire
is inserted properly into the Molex connector that plugs into the control
board. The wire may appear to be inserted properly, but sometimes is not
connected to the pin on the control board. Push the Red wire into the
Molex connector to ensure it is seated properly.

If the wire is inserted properly, carefully check for voltage on the pin-out
on the control board. If no voltage is present on the control board, the
control board is bad and needs to be replaced. (See note above indicating
when voltage is present, voltage reading should be line voltage) If there
isn’t any voltage present on the control board, the control board is
defective and needs replacing.

Check the Red wire in the harness for continuity if needed with an OHM
meter.

If voltage is present at the igniter, unplug the wires and use an Ohm meter
and check the Igniter for continuity. If the circuit is open the Igniter is
burnt out and needs replaced. If there is continuity, take an Ohm reading.
You should see a reading of approximately 58 Ohms. An Igniter with a
reading that significantly varies from 58 Ohm should be replaced.

HOPE THIS HELPS RIGHT FROM THE ST CROIX SERVICE MANUAL

Are the holes that are directly in front of the igniter blocked by chance? I had a customer call me with the same issue you are having, when I got there to service the furnace the holes were blocked, this would cause the POF sensor to error as the igniter gets hot but can not get the pellets hot enough to start a fire just smolder. All you have to do to ensure the igniter is working is take the cover off the igniter and start the stove, you will feel the igniter get hot once the pellets start to feed in.

jammer wrote:


I checked and cleaned all the holes but still no fire from the ignighter. I did take the out last night and cleaned it. Both wires fell out from corrosion I guess. I stripped and made new connection at the ignighter. The ignighter had a chip out of one edge on 2 sides. After talking to the dealer this morning I am nearly 98% convinced that the ignighter is bad but after he got a price, EVEN TEMP cautioned to make sure thats what it is and not the board they thought it was the ign. also So, I am going to wade in with my meter to see what I can see but will first try to determine if the ignighter in fact bad. That part is an expensive little item at $200. Sure glad its not s cold as last week when I had it operating.

Pellet wrote:


Short answer; with a match. No kidding.
Long answer; I read the manual and there is a hint of starting the fire the old fashioned way, with a match. They warn about not using a liguid flammable to start the fire. Get some fire starting gel. Charge the burn pot using the feed button to add some pellets to the burn pot. Add some fire starting gel to the pellets and then light the gel with a kitchen match. You should have the control set to run manually. Close the door and turn the control on. The fire should get your POF switch hot and the stove will continue to run. Adjust the burn rate with the control to suit your requirements. The stove should hold a steady output that you set but it won't be under thermostat control.
Try it and see how it works. You may have to make some adjustments until you learn how the stove works this way. Good luck.
The only difference will be you start the fire and not the igniter and you control the heat.

tallcorn wrote:

I'll give that a try.I did try to start it manually today but with a couple of long pellets but then with some toothpicks. Didnt have any stick matches and I have heard of the gel which I might have to get at a stove shop. Never seen any at Menards of a place like that but then I guess Ive never looked for it. I will try the manual start in the morning