Hello,

Just rejoined. Started with a Big M 2 years ago. got sidetracked with flue/smoke issues. Seasons changed, moved on! Still paying for propane. Bought a used American Royal (Universal Grain) 1020. Propane boiler is leaking water, so corn boiler installation has become a priority in Wisconsin. Anyway, can somebody supply a schematic/operation/installation manual. I understand the basic controls from the time I dealt with the Big M. but the 1020 has a few more input sensors. (2) timers, more snap switches.

Any help will be appreciated. I'll be experimenting tonight, but some diagrams would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,

Tim

do you have a fax I can scan what you need off mine and send it or i can download it and send it to you as a message

I can do it in the am after driving bus around 9:am

Here's what I copied out of my manual.Hope this helps.

Thanks so very much! Thanks for taking the extra effort. I sent an email to mwells yesterday, and he called me yesterday afternoon. His location indicates he is less than 2 hrs from me. We discussed my situation.

What I did last night was: diagram the electrical/components so I could develop a concept of the control scheme. There were a few sets of wires disconnected so I needed to determine where they go.

What I determined was: bin auger was disconnected (red & white wire), circulating pump wires (obvious since the switch is labled.)
Blue & white wires not connected (by process of elimination - they are the 120V hot and neutral). One of the limit switches doesn't have wires leading to it. It's the switch below the "manual" reset thermostat switch on the lower right of the boiler tank. I assumed it to be a low limit since I saw an F120-10F on it, but the 1st number is: 610016 that indicates it might be a Stancor 200° (open on rise" limit switch) ??? I will look at the documents that you sent to me.

Connected 120v to blue/white, turned top timer to "0", toggle switch to start mode, and then the TEMP controller had power, the blower started, few second delay, and then the burn pot auger started.
After the delay, the solenoid has power to it, but it does not lift the damper.
I connected the bin auger and it ran also.

I will read what you sent to me, but I assume in start mode, the timers are overridden until a min. temp. is made, and then I can switch to AUTO. I let the augers run, and verified that it would move wood pellets. The bin auger is 1rpm CCW and the burn pot auger is 6rpm CW. The bin auger is painfully slow. I've seen where guys have upgraded to 4 or 6rpm. I imagine it's all relative to your load, outdoor temp, fuel quality etc. My bin auger motor is in tough shape. It runs, but sometimes it hesitates. I have some extra motors from the BIG M (4 & 6rpm CW so I'm going to install (1) of them and switch to "pushing" fuel to the burn pot auger. My boiler is under a shelter so I'm not concerned about "weather" affecting the bin auger.

I didn't start a fire because it was getting late. I didn't fill with water either since time was short.
I developed a pumping circuit based on the "BOOKS" that are discussed frequently on this site. The boiler is in a shelter adjacent to my garage. Pipes through the walls of the shelter and garage. (The shelter is by no means "air tight". It has lots of open area. I put the biler in a shelter so I'm not laying outside, in the snow, changing an auger motor, at midnight!

Piping: Pumps are located inside the garage. I have a pump that will circulate water through the boiler if I don't have any demand from the zone pumps. I have (3) zone pumps in the garage. (1) pump will circulate water to the FPH xchanger in the basement. (1) pump will circulate water thought the radiant baseboard (fin&tube) that I have in the garage, and (1) pump is for future if I decide to install a forced air unit in the garage(if the fin & tube can't maintain a decent temp) and as my "DUMP ZONE" for excess heat/over temp. emergencies.

After I read what you sent, and get home this afternoon, I will test my water system for leaks. Retrofit a 4 or 6 rpm motor to the bin auger.


QUESTION about the bin auger. I have the bin (14 bu. tan/gold fiberglass unit) as close to the boiler as I can get it, so I can have the shortest bin auger. The bin auger is ≈2" dia. with 3" PVC. Is it typical to have the small auger in the large tube? Prevent jams? On the Big M, the auger is matched to the tube PVC/copper size. I like the idea of big pvc & small auger, if it does a decent job of moving the material. These boilers/furnaces seem to go through alot of revisions, so I don't know how current my unit is (I bought it used), and if the big/small is the current trend.

The info you sent, should answer most of questions about intitial "settings". I'll need to order a solenoid, but I want to see if there are any other components I need. Until then, I'll prop the damper open and balance between high fire and idle.

I have attached the electrical interconnection diagram that I created so I can understand the circuit.

do not put a 4-6Rpm motor on the bin auger it will overload the bottom auger.

I will read the rest of your post later on my way to work right now!

in order to get your air shutter to open you have to take setpoint on contoller lower than water temp, and then bring it back up. shutter should open for high fire, good luck.

I tried to post my "handwritten diagram" but it was a PDF so it didn't go through. after I looked at the manual, I revised my assumptions, and saved it as a .doc. I hope it comes through. (revised some wire colors also since oranges and purples turned to reds and blues!!!

Your posting of the manual was valuable. I had made some incorrect assumptions:
CORRECTION: The BLUE/WHITE I found are for the PUMP, (not 120VAC).
CORRECTION: The Big yellow/fused wire from the "pump" switch is actually my 120V "HOT".
CORRECTION: I think the "THERMAL DISK #2" (didn't have any wires connected to it) should be connected to the PURPLE (faded to blue) from the pump switch. Then I assume it is in series with TD #1???? Assumption: TD #2 is Normally open during start-up (water <130°). TD #2 closes at 130°, passes power to TD #1 which passes power to the AUTO Switch. I don't know what TD #3(on the burner auger) does, but if it is satisfied, 120VAC is supplied to the RANCO ETC, and then it can control the timers. If TD #1 exceeds 180°, it opens, disabling the circuit, or if water temp drops below 130°, TD #2 opens, also disabling the circuit.

Plumbing: On my boiler, there are (2) valves under the control panel area and then a 1" copper line that comes down from top/center. The portion of the manual that you posted doesn't describe SUPPLY & RETURN. Originally, I thought the 1" copper line would be the SUPPLY (i.e. hottest water at the top), and one of the valves below would be RETURN and the other would be for a make-up water connection. I don't know what has possessed me but, I presently have the 1" copper connected to RETURN, and one of the valves on the bottom connected to the SUPPLY. Please straighten-me-out!! I have a boiler drain valve in my return line, so I will probably add makeup water at that valve.

AUGER SPEEDS: I don't know what normal is: but, I have a 6 RPM motor on the burn pot auger. Is this original or an upgrade? If it's an upgrade, does that still mean that a 1 RPM bin auger will overfeed the burner auger. If this matters, I will be starting with bagged wood pellets, and then make the switch to corn. (while I'm learning how to run the system, I thought wood pellets would be less of a variable.

I think that's all for now. Thanks again,
Tim

Trying to attach again. Too new version of WORD??, try an old version.