Hobby Farmer,
That surprises meet, each time I have called (three times) I have gotten thru. Keep trying.

www.rfsaugerflighting.com/replace.htm

This is a company that makes replacement flighting, I have no idea ho expensive. I looked at Schoup and Mcmaster, they only have 5 inch bigger auger and flighting.

Do you have a farm machinery jockey/junk guy in your area? maybe they have a junk auger the ends are bad and you can get a good section out of the middle. Maybe across feed auger for the rethrasher on a small old combine would fit? Just trying to throw out ideas to you.

When I burned pellets only air never seemed to be a problem. When burning corn I always though air was a problem. I purchased the 195CFM blower 16-1387 from Surplus Center but have not installed it, started mixing pellets in before I recieved the blower. Seems to be working good now and do not want to mess with it, to cold also. The opening looked close and I could drill new holes and have it mount up.

Good luck

I did alot of searching but never found RFS. Looks like a good source. We have Lowe Mfg. (Bobcat trencher/PHD attachments) up the road. Seems like they have a small auger division, but I haven't called them. Another Industry to check is the "earth Auger" companies. They use them for sampling soil, ice etc. Drilling holes for ski racing gates, etc.

I don't know what "normal" is yet, but I added another Grainger 2C067 to the side of my housing to try to get more heat out of the corn. Apparently it's pressurizing the auger tubes because "fines" are starting to accumulate near the auger bearing housing and gear motor. One thing to keep in mind is: The grainger blower is CCW rotation. The blowers from SC are CW. So to install them, the inlet will be facing down or else the blower housing will hit the burn auger. Of course, with the inlet down, the air shutter will need to be reconfigured, or modify the "timer/power" scheme. Or move the blower to the side. (that's what I did, since my boiler is in a shelter, and I've never installed the side panel.

I have a SS auger and tube from a SPice factory, but I need to head over to the local scrapper and get some augers out of those old combines,etc.

Tim

Tim,
I missed that you added th 2c067 blower, that is the blower that came on my stove. Mine is 2 years old but made much earlier. The problem with putting on a bgger blower is the air you blow in needs to come out plusthe expansion of burning. The three tubes in the back limit how much air can get out.

I do not use the damper on my stove (took it off), when in low burn I turn the blower off. I have been running it this way all this year without a problem. The time I would worry about it is when we get warm in the spring it might want to over temp. I run a 800 second loop with a 6% cycle on the blower in low burn. The pot auger run 6% and the bin auger runs 5%,

For the auger I would be carefull about the pitch of the flights. The motor is only so big and may not be able to handel a more aggresive pitch.

GRA, I here what you're saying about air Volume. I see the signs of the augers being pressurized, some smoke-back, "fines" being blown out at fittings etc. It was/is a desperate attempt. It might be a "4 barrel carb on a lawnmower". I anxious to have some over temp problems!!!

Custom electronic controls? I've got other problems, but sounds interesting for the future. I've briefly looked into a PID control, but i expect the fuel rate of our systems is too slow/inconsistent for success.

Tim,
The control loop on my system is like trying to control a slinky.

My main loop is about 150 ft long, two forced air exchangers a brazzed plate and side arm for potable water and if anything left the in floor heat. I am pumping at ~6GPM, set point 155 deg. When the first forced air kicks in it takes 2 minutes for the stove to see a temperature drop on the return line. There is 100 ft of tube and mass between the first exchanger and the stove return. All of this mass is dumping its heat back into the cooled water. Often the forced air will shut off before the outlet of the stove drops below 150 my turn on point.

As a point of reference I can start my stove from cold, with all loads turned off. In a little over an hour bring the loop up to 150 deg.

To start the fire iI fill to just above the lower row of holes. I keep a quart jar of wood pellets in just enough kerosene to cover the bottom of the jar, I use about 1/2 the jar to start the fire. Light it with a propane torch wait until it looks like they are burning accross the pile then start the stove.

You've done your homework! I like tracking those types of variables also, but I'm not there yet. I look forward to that type of information.
If it's in the 30's this weekend, I'll have some time for a cushion, and maybe I can stabilize. I'm always reacting!!! Maybe not reacting the way I like, but making a compromise due to work, plowing snow, etc. October/November would have been a much better time to start-up vs. Jan. Feb. (I fixed the propane boiler piping leaks in the fall, which held enough pressure to force a cast iron heat exchanger leak around Christmas) It never got any better, so my FIREDRILL started!!!

sounds like alot of mods have been done to your boiler, i would like to supply more air to my amer. royal. surplus center has a blower that supplies 230 cfm ,has anyone used this blower? it looks close to factory. also augers i will be changing my setup this summer, and need a longer auger. any help will be appreciated.

Hello Fitter.

I like you circulator manifold. I hope to see it in person sometime.

Haven't forgot about you, but I haven't been to Mayville/Hartford yet.

I bought the 230 from SC. It is a CW rotation to. The grainger is CCW. To install the SC blower with the air inlet up (so you can install the air shutter), the blower housing will hit the burn auger. Also, the motor is external. (probably better for this app.) I've thought to install one in the orig. location, with the inlet down, you would need to "hinge" a shutter, and counter balance with a light spring, and have the solenoid pull down. It would be a little science project in itself to recreate that shutter function using the existing solenoid.


I cut a hole in the side of my airbox and installed a 2nd grainger 2C067. I was so far out in left field and nervous about the cold weather last week, I wanted more air, to help with a poor? fuel situation. I may still be in left field but with all the information I learned last week, I started fresh on Sunday. cleaned out the bin and burn pot. Installed new flighting on the burn auger and got the boiler to setpoint at about 10pm last night. Time will tell.

If I had to do over again. I might try another Grainger fan, mount it above the existing, and use the solenoid power to run fan number 2. I might use a "static" manual shutter setting on fan 1. I hope to get stabilized this week, and I will see what affect the 2nd fan has.
I didn't mount above the existing because my auger purge tube was in the way, not very flexible, and I didn't want to retap those 3/4 fittings.

With all that said:

I do have a 230 CFM blower from SC available if someone wants it.
I will keep my spare 2C067 grainger fan.
I do have a spare solenoid - new from grainger (when I bought the fan).

Tim

replying to my own???

Fitter. About the auger. I bought (4) of those short augers from SC. They were $5 each. they're heavy. I think they're only about 12 long.

Green Roof posted RFS? reflighting services in Nebraska? I've got a section of something I found at an auction. Somebody mentioned a salvage yard. I have a file with some other "screw conveyor" and "earth auger" companies. I saw that vertical hay bale elevators use augers, but I think they are too big.

A good annual consignment auction (March) in Lebanon. at the feed mill. I think Stan Jones does it. Check his site.

Hi Timo2le I was thinking after we talked on the phone that day. How clean was the original fan I know before i rerouted the air tube the fan would load up with gunk and it's speed was drastically reduced causing a poor burn there is a lube hole for the motor in the bottom. I pulled the motor and fan assembly out to clean it the blades would be all gummed up reducing air flow. But when I changed the air tube I just replaced the whole fan assembly.If it is running properly I don't think that you should need a second fan. I'm burning a lot of very fine dust and ground corn mixed in my fuel with no problems. Just a thought.