Will you still get the condensation of gases if your boiler is running full steam seems like your fire would produce enough heat in the fire box to prevent that or am I mistaken?

jabbott wrote:


What did you find when you had the fire tubes cut out? Was the corrosion from the inside - corrosive gas from cold operation and/or improper Summer storage - or was it from the wet side?

jabbott wrote:
It just moves the (in that case) non issue to an unnecessary system accessory

How the heck did I drop 12 points of Karma in an hour???

JA's got a -12 Karma

Karma---- how do I get karma---- I want some too. Mine says 0

If you're concerned about condensation, You could install a termovar or similar valve to prevent return temps below 140. Also when they installed my floor radiant the installer didn't put a bypass line and valve before the mixing valve between the supply and return. This left all that 180 degree water just waiting for it's turn for the mixing valve while the return was never over 100. I added a bypass valve to allow supply water into the return and raise the return temp.

is your supply water temp to the slab 175 ? a mixing valve might help, but piping is in required. if the return is 150, you should be ok. question for the experts out there condensing temp 140?

fitter wrote:


yup -- about there is the accepted lowest temp you should "OPERATE" - now that written and occasional dip in and below and right back out of condensing temperatures isn't going to hurt a flea.

Its Operating below 140 or about depending on the appliance and system that can be disastrous.

but its just as bad to never clean your fire tubes and let it get so bad that the turbulators are stuck in the fire tubes

But we wouldn't know any one who would let it get that bad

its hitting the slab at about 160-165. My concern was that the cooler water hitting the boiler tank could cause problems. Its workede great all winter until I got up and went outside and the boiler temp read 130. The upper auger motor has gone out and not feeding fuel to the burn pot. Bad thing is I just fully loaded the hopper yesterday and it holds 11 bushel of corn. I dug it all out and it appears the auger moter is out. Auger is free but not turning. This afternoon I am going to remove the auger and take a closer look. Of course dealer is closed today and sunday. Ive been throwing pellets inside to the pot to get by. The boiler temp is at 155 right now and its single digits outside.

if you had a mixing valve you could lower inlet temp and also limit shocking your boiler. or just close in valve alittle would help. the way it is working i wouldn't worry to much.

pippsfarm wrote:


Do you have a corded variable speed drill you could chuck on in place to auger in some fuel == yes PIA till you get it fixed but safer than tossin thru the door

How about a BBQ grill motor for a weekend sari-get driver-- anything low speed ????