Well I now have my tax refund in my hot sweaty hand. I am planning on spending it on a 60 gallon indirect hot water heater. Soon I will be fishing for advice on how to redo all the plumbing to get it hooked up.

Just giving you advance warning...

Do you have a link to the water heater you are looking at?.........

PDF is here: http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-81.pdf

Any idea on a price? Looks like a nice product.

Configuration instructions and controls should already be on hand as a part of your nice new mod-com boiler. If not, you will need the control upgrade and then the hook up configuration will be included.

Steve should have them too.

Kind Regards
Sting

I am planning on re-plumbing the entire setup this summer. The new boiler came with a probe that I am suppose to install in the water heater tank, and there is a spot to hook it into the boiler so that zone gets priority.

I was thinking I would still need a zone valve control. I found a Taco# ZVC406-3. With the boiler the way it is, would I need the controller to run the domestic water zone, or could the boiler just run that?

The water tank I found on Ebay for $1300 shipped to my door. Locally I found it for $1900 with the friendly Steve discount. No moving parts, he suggested I go ahead and just go the Ebay route.

And again....

Woo HOO Back to negative 200 Karma -- Can you feel the love in this page?



You need a temperature reducing loop or ? so you have enough energy to heat the baseboard and not over heat the cast radiator load - these two systems will not operate correctly on similar energy bearing liquid

ok I first looked at this and then I looked again so I edited a little


Did you omit your corn boiler for a reason?

before you continue - maybe you should read a little

at least this one
www.heatinghelp.com/products/Books/5/99/...ry-Pumping-Made-Easy

better the whole group
www.heatinghelp.com/products/Super-Deals...131/Go-With-The-Flow

I should have labelled pump one and pump two. Lets call the top pump number one, the one closer to the boiler pump two.

So, I thought (maybe incorrectly) the function of the zone control box with the priority was that the zone valves would close to the house and leave open the one to the water heater and then pump one would be pumping into just the water heater. Would there be a time when the house zone valves would be open at the same time the DWH would be calling for heat.

Or, are you saying that is why I definatly need the zone control box? Just using the boiler priority zone won't be good enough? I think the boiler also has something where it runs at a higher water temperature when just the DHW is calling for heat.

it depends

pump one near the boiler and the hydraulic isolation you have drawn is necessary due to the boiler design

the other questions are predicated on how you continue to develop this with or without the Traeger.