2nd vote for walk away, steam is a different animal. get him a corn stove to help supplement.

changing setup so i need to buy a few feet of feed auger. amer. royal boiler, inside 3" pvc. any recommendations would be helpful. looking forward to another year if burning.

sounds like alot of mods have been done to your boiler, i would like to supply more air to my amer. royal. surplus center has a blower that supplies 230 cfm ,has anyone used this blower? it looks close to factory. also augers i will be changing my setup this summer, and need a longer auger. any help will be appreciated.

I am happy to hear your project is working, it sounded a little complex. good work.

thanks bluewolf for the info on o2. i just took it for granted that corn would produce o2 if not burnt properly. another reason to burn corn. now all we have to do is wait for ethanol to fail, and prices come back down.

if you had a mixing valve you could lower inlet temp and also limit shocking your boiler. or just close in valve alittle would help. the way it is working i wouldn't worry to much.

were do you tap in air tube on the fire box? also grainger # their catalog is huge. i made some tools out of 1/2 conduit & sheetmetal, one is a rake , one is a shovel. i also use a bent rod to clean sides.

If you have a stove in your home you need a co detector as well. co is a silent killer, you absorb it over time. I know it seems simple but very important. Does anyone have a story on this subject, or someone you know who has been exsposed co poisoning?

if you have one ignore this, please get a co censor in your house right by the stove. black, air , draft, something is wrong. this is serious.

is your supply water temp to the slab 175 ? a mixing valve might help, but piping is in required. if the return is 150, you should be ok. question for the experts out there condensing temp 140?

farmer1, i like your ideas and about the air and augers. the output of my boiler seems to be down from last year. have you had the holes around the fire pot clog up. sorry about being late getting back to you, but when it gets cold i get real busy. 1/2 hole in low fire plate, move tube to fire box, check hole for blower outlet. number for surplus store, and if you have them for # for grainger parts. it is going to be -15 tonight so no up grade for a while. thanks again for your help.

hi, mark thanks for the info. i would like to get dayton part # for both augers, and solenoid if you have them. i only have a 100 bus. bin and would like to get a 250 bus. it sucks to have to fill in winter. the only problem i have had is when the gravity part clogs and no corn flows to the auger. i though about some type of viberator to help any ideas? have you had that problem?

what kind of furnace do you have? you can switch fan speeds on your main board outputs. when you turn your fan on by power to g terminal fan runs on high speed. the terminal on the main board will be labeled cool, and should have a black wire on it. depending on make of furnace, you may have a 4 speed fan, red= low yellow= med low blue = med high black=high. so if you put red on cool terminal and yellow on heat you can slow down air flow, lowering btu consumption. plus supply air will be nice and warn. just food for though.

yes the pack looked good, one more game da-bears. go pack go!

happy to hear things are working out, good luck and just keep tinkering.

I keep trying to update my profile but i just can get the pictures to upload. i get the path in the window and then save but i don't know where they go. this picture size, path or what.

try to slow down your fan speed, most you can change. then try to cover part of the fan inlet, on the swirl cage. nice slow heating of your house, the new furnaces use this tech. with dc fan motors. it really helps scourched air a little more comfortable. you fan motor we pull less amps when covered, i know sounds crazy but true. and not the motor side. just some things to play with on these cold days, i'm drifted in so i can't go anywhere for a little while. any questions just ask, jeff

i am on my 2nd season with my amer. royal and they work great. on most boiler installs supply is out the top, but for this one it is out the bottom.filling from the house or low spot is better, because you can purge air out both lines.and some from both supply and return. the wiring is diagrams are poor at best. i had a bad high limit to start with, so you might have to jumper or bypass to start. if you have a meter you can check them to make sure.to get to go in to high fire you have to put the setpoint below actual temp, by setting it and than hitting set 3 or 4 time until temp appears. then bring temp up and hit set again 3 or 4 times. having gone through same problems myself, thats why if you call i would gladly go over it with you. i can call you back so it doesn't cost you. it can be alittle alot frustrating at times. if you lived closer i would just come over and help, i enjoy this crazy stuff. but i live up by columbus. did you get yours from anderson outdoor?