You've been an excellent resource and a good friend on this forum, JET. Will be sorry that you're moving on. Drop in from time to time.

Meanwhile, here's wishing you luck in your reno and sale of your stove. I know that it's a gem. If I were much closer to MN, I'd be at your door with cash.

Everyone, before we all disperse and the heating season runs out, please join me in thanking JA for his thankless labour and expense of hosting this forum yet another year. Ditto for his wife and family who tolerate his obscession.

JA, sincerely, thanks, and here's hoping that you're still at it next year and that we all return in fine form and good numbers. I've enjoyed the commeraderie, the lessons, and the good clean fun.

(JA, I clicked on the smiley topic icon instead of the heart, so that you don't get the wrong idea.)

Winter, I haven't gone back to re-read the thread, but I'm wondering if you're using the correct version of Bixcheck.
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby...e_with_your_Stove.3F

Data structure has changed between different versions of stove firmware, so the bixcheck data versions must match.

Can you get to the Monitor screen and press Readback? That would show you the stove firmware version. You'd also be able to see whether the stove data format matches the bixcheck data format. These fields should be green (not red) along with the checksum fields. Apologies if this has been covered earlier.

Very nice, Farmer ! I've been away for a few weeks, and I enjoyed coming back and seeing your good work. Enjoy!

Now *that's* slick !

Hi Teo.

I can't speak for kmd, but TC wires should never be kinked or bent (Edit: Curves are OK, but not very harsh bends). This is not only because of the fragility of thin solid core wires, but also because distortions can change their responsivities somewhat.

For repacking the hole, I have used a dab of Permatex Ultra Copper in the past, and it has held up well to the elevated temperatures. www.permatex.com/products/product-catego...-gasket-maker-detail . I have also used it to secure the burn plate gasket, and it has held up better there than the more common red silicone caulking.

Edit: It is available in any automotive parts store and is commonly used to make exhaust manifold gaskets.

That's good news,kmd, and thanks for the kind words.

To be clear, you did re-insert the thermocouple wire but at a different insertion depth, right? The stove will not run beyond the start cycle if it doesn't detect a heat rise on the TC. To make your life easier, I should have suggested marking the insertion depth on the TC wire before pulling it. That would give you a reference point when putting it back in. Glad that it worked out anyhow.

Hmmmmm

Are you speaking of the convection fan? It's speed is driven by the TC reading and by the fan ramp profile defined in the Fuel table accessible by Bixcheck as explained here: forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby...vection_Fan_Settings . High TC reading gives high convection fan speed. For startup, the reading should be low, and the conv fan speed low, until the flame builds up. What you're describing is consistent with the stove thinking that it is too hot. Are its surfaces very hot to the touch? Do you smell that hot metal smell? Have you adjusted the TC immersion depth? A quarter or half inch of depth can make a big diff to TC sensitivity. If you haven't yet touched it, don't at this point, until you're sure that the TC is giving an excessively high reading.

kmdfarm wrote:


Light 3 means overheating.
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby#Light_.233

Ditto for the all flashing lights. While they can mean that T-stat is satisfied, as Blume mentioned, they can also mean that the stove is entering the hi-temp pullback mode, as explained here forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby#All_8_lights_flashing . A failed overtemp pullback (perhaps because the firepot is already overfilled) would cause the #3 overheat.

The following link discusses the possible causes of overheat, and how to tackle them. E.g., a bad thermal snapdisc or a dirty air filter or a premium one that is too dense, or an oversensitive detection circuit. There's a fix for each of these.
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby#Light_.233

Wouldn't shoot it yet, but I did have a good chuckle, Dollarbill -- thanks1

You've contributed meaningfully to this forum, so I Will be sorry to see you go, Steve. Wishing you all the best in your new ventures and in your sales. From your discussions, I know that you took excellent care of your stove. You've even cut out a little access hatch for the trim pots. Someone will be getting an excellent deal.

Welcome to the forum, kmd. Here's where you can read up on the fan and how to fix it. I believe that Blume can send you bearings at a decent price if you send him a pm.

Edit: here's the link
forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#Convection_Fan

Yes, good to check the TC wire if the stove doesn't make it out of startup mode.

If that doesn't do it, consider using Bixcheck to collect a log file from the time you hit the start button to the time of shutdown. You can post the log and dat file in this thread.

That's the kind of story that I like, Stiney. Way to go ! Please get back to us after you get it going.

At some point, the very nice JA has increased the upload file size limit. This made it possible to host the Bixby user and service manuals. They are now available directly from the WIKI, here, from Model 100 through to the UBB: forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby#Manuals_and_Guides . The service manual, in particular, is well worth the download.

In addition, I see that Mike at BixbyStoveParts is hosting Bixcheck software for the 120 and UBB, and for the 115 (ver 2.71). The WIKI forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#BixCheck_Software now points to his page rather than to the defunct Bixby download page.

Welcome back, Greenstreak. Glad that you checked in and are still at it.

Nice to hear from you and to learn that you are still burning. Your excellent video is still referenced in the WIKI here: forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby#User_Videos .

The WIKI also links to some threads that provide suppliers and product numbers of feedwheel gasket material. The material that I purchased from McMaster Carr in 2008 was inexpensive and is still holding up, although I haven't burned as many pellets, which are harder on gaskets than corn.

Here is the WIKI link to the gasket threads: forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#Feeder_Wheel_Gasket .

Wishing you success.

Good advice from Blume,there.

I'd add that the thermocouple readings are not necessarily a fair comparison of the two stoves' heat output. Those Type K TCs aren't calibrated, they are subject to drift, and as little as 1/4" difference in insertion depth into the flue can make a noticable diff. So if one stove was doing high temp pullbacks (i.e., nominal TC reading hitting ~250), it doesn't necessarily mean that the stove was pushing more heat than the other.

To see the factory default fuel settings, open a Fuel Table, select the appropriate bullets to identify you stove and fuel types, then click on Calulate Fuel. The factory default settings will show in orange.

I'm not much of a pellet person, so like teosinte, I'm interested in the thinking behind wood-lean and wood-rich. For 2.71, I see that the default settings are quite different (between wood-rich and wood-lean), and the fan setting is not constant across the heat levels for wood-rich as it is for wood-lean. Just curious.

Thanks cd. I added your adviceto the WIKI here: forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/Bixby...on_with_Error_Code_8 . Did I get it right?

If you're running the same stove for 9 years, you must be doing something right yourself.

Thanks for closing the loop, burnsy. I'm glad that it worked out and that the fix was cheap and easy. Reminds me that I should be attending to my own filter soon. Happy burning.

That's nice tinwork, tf!