Well, that didn't last long. Now I think it's bad string between the tin cans.

Well, it just happened again. I was using Internet Explorer. Switching over to Google got it back.

I think the server is shut down during the night. I know if you have anything to say and write a big, long message you better copy it before you click "Submit" and have it blow away in the wind.

Dang! I wrote a big ole reply and it didn't "Submit". I'll make it short. You can't block off where the air went to the burn pot from the old fan. Not completely. The burn pot has to get air. It won't be under positive pressure (blow) now but under negative pressure (like suck as in "draft" up a chimney). So look at that plate for a way to get some air past it. Maybe that hole with the plug"

Yeah, and a lot of your heat is getting blown out the stack. High draft doesn't work at the lowest heat setting either, the fire will go out if there isn't enough burning pellets maintained in the burn pot to hold a fire.

When I first got my stove I had a different exhaust setup. The exhaust pipe went through a cover plate over my fireplace and up inside the chimney. Even with the side exhaust gate closed the burn pot would eventually lose out when the corn burned faster than the auger could feed it. I was burning corn back then (less than $2 per bushel) and I was trying to keep the stove running on #1 setting. I was getting too much draft. My dealer suggested pulling the left cleanout plate out until it cut the draft down so the fuel didn't burn so quickly. That worked. After I got the slide where I needed to pull it out to I put a strip of masking tape on the slide to mark the position. Then when I moved the slide for cleaning I could use the tape for reference to where to reset the slide. Even if you need to change the slide adjustment for a change in fuel, etc. you have a reference with the tape.
I think if you look back in the old forum you can find lots of discussion and pictures about adjusting the draft. Other than adding pellets and dumping the burn pot every couple of days I've got my stove pretty close to "set it and forget it".

Hi mike-minn13,

I started replying to your posting last night but the server went down as I submitted my post. Let me know what is going on. Usually getting any fuel burning right is a matter of getting the combustion air adjusted. Adjust the air in small amounts at a time and allow the change to take effect. You probably already know that but have used your stove to burn corn so long you forgot what you did when you first started using the stove.

Tall

If you could make the firebox perfect the only place that would take heat from it would be the heat exchanger. The sides and top are insulated to keep the heat in. The back of the firebox is protected by a fireboard that radiates heat through the door glass and reduces heat from reaching the back of the firebox. To protect the steel during the non-heating season clean the metal and coat it with a spray on rust preventer.

I just read your postings. It looks like you are making heat but it either isn't getting picked up by the heat exchanger or it is going up the stack. Can you slow/reduce the exhaust and still maintain the burn pot level? Evidently the pellets have a high silica content that are making the clinkers. You might test some other pellets. The pellets must burn lower in the burn pot and don't push the clinker up.

I've been heating all winter with a new ultra high efficiency gas furnace. I want to see what the running cost is without using the Countryside 3500P. But the last few days have been really cold and tonight is going to be a real "3 dog" night with temperatures and wind chill way down below zero. Just for kicks and that toasty feel from sitting by the Countryside I decided to see if I still had the "touch" at starting the fire. Dumped a cup of pellets in the burn pot, broke up 'half of a Strike-A-Fire match, lit the match pieces and turned the control to 3 and let the fun begin. Checked the hopper and it was still full of pellets from last spring. The stove heated up and made the proof of fire switch temperature, the auger started and then the room air fan started. Nice and cozy.

Too much heat? A nice problem to have unless it's causing climate change.

Go to AES's web site and download an owners manual. The manual will show you where and how to adjust the auger feed rate for the lowest settings. Looks like there is 3 different years manual.

www.americanenergysystems.com/owners-manuals.cfm

www.americanenergysystems.com/Stock/Libr...rmanual0509rev10.pdf

This is where it is on the above manual. Page 39 (between 38 and 40)

Does the stove work, all motors run? If everything works, what needs replacing?

As far as I know the AES Countryside was the orginal negative draft corn burner. Negative draft: The exhaust blower is on the exhaust side of the burn pot and pulls the combustion air into the burning fuel. If anything plugs or blocks the exhaust or the air flow through the stove the fire from the burning fuel won't be forced into the fuel hopper. Corn in the burn pot will not burn if the air flow is out of adjustment with the negative combustion system.
I've used my Countryside for over ten years. The only real problem I ever had was a cold solder joint on the control board and I think that was a "fluke". I have never replaced a motor. I use the stove from about October into May depending on the temperatures. I live in the Midwest, State of Iowa. If you don't like the weather, wait a few minutes. Temperatures vary from over 100 degrees F. to I've seen minus 28 F. Sometimes below zero F. for a month.
Right now wood pellets are cheaper than corn so I've burned wood pellets this winter. I had the stove running a few days ago.

Even at the price you would have to pay for pellets to start the corn burning, they will still be a fairly inexpenensive fire starter. It usually only takes about a 6oz. cup of wood pellets to start a corn fire. It might take even less. Depends a little on the kind of burn pot the stove has and your experience. It's a bit of an "art" that you learn. If you were perfect at every attempt to start a fire a 40 pound supply of pellets would start the stove over 100 times.
Another thing to consider is something is needed to start the pellets. Fire starting gel or pellets soaked in a non-explosive liquid flammable. But liquids are not recommended for safety reasons. I use a Diamond Match product called "Strike-A-Fire". They are a wax impregnated fiber fire starting match. I use 1/2 a match broken into pieces. Light with a kitchen match. Works every time.

Had to fire it up again until a couple of hours ago. I like it warm.

I measured my old stirrer at 9-3/4". If the USSC stirrer is a little longer it will just stick out more from the end of the pot. Should work.

Something to think about. Get a good dust mask. You should use it for corn anyway. You could still use the pellets in the frankenpot but wear the dust mask, stop the fire and smoke before opening the door and use a vacuum cleaner with the hose laid over the door opening to pull in fly ash, use heavy gloves and pull the burn pot and dump the ashes down the pot hole. Pellets are easy to relight.


www.americanenergysystems.com/hardware.cfm

www.americanenergysystems.com/Modules/St...es.cfm?productID=187

MF3513S $49.00
Fuel Stirrer ( for Firepot )
Models: MagnuM 7500 Furnace, MagnuM Countryside Fireplace Insert, MagnuM Countryside Pedestal, MagnuM Countryside Queen Ann Leg Unit

If you have the stove plugged into a surge protector (it should be) , check the surge protector to make sure the power surges didn't blow the protector. If you know the stove is plugged into a live outlet then check the fuse on the circuit board.

It will be interesting to see the support equipment setup for this. It won't be a 4 gallon bucket operation. Nice looking burner.

I think the ceramic coating would have to be applied after the stirrer is fabricated. Structural shape and strength would have to come from the steel stirrer.