Standing straight this morning, go figure. When fully cleaning exhaust should the converter box be cleaned out too?

Today the flame started leaning to the right to where the flames are only in contact with the right heat exchanger cover. heat output is still okay but changes in how it runs concern me. anyone have experience with this? Could a partial blockage in exhaust be responsible? Or possibly a slight leak in the firebox. Don't see any signs of leaking up from bottom but maybe the top of the firebox?

I have seen a bit on this topic here already. Here is what is going on in my stove. Stove will be running fine, usually on level 1 or 2 (it rarely has to higher than that even though I'm in a 1870's farmhouse). I'll look over at the stove and see that suddenly the flame has gone and 2 and 3 are blinking, the stove has shut down but the convection fan still runs. Tube is not plugged and fire had been just fine with no lack of fuel (pellets) to burn. Restart stove, stove will run fine for anywhere from 2 hours to a full day before 2,3 repeating with shutdown. Convection fan still runs with no noise although I am going to get some bearings to keep on hand. Thermocouple still secure. When stove is on it gives great heat but I have yet to be watching it when the flame suddenly dies or fades away. Possible it could be an exhaust fan issue? Open to suggestions.

blume98 wrote:

Any particular bearing number you use ralph? Or are skateboard bearings all the same? Where do you get your grease?

Anyone know a good place to get bearings for convection fan on a 115? A particular part# you've had good luck with? Thanks all

glad you're back in the heat

sounds like the touchpad may be heating up and shorting the on switch causing the dump then restart. just a thought. maybe someone has a spare they can lend you to try

Thanks for the tip Ralph. i sent my board out to you yesterday

when you say "raising" do you mean raising them on the board face or soldering them so the pins stick out the other side?

I have read that problems with the ignitor boards have been traced to the r16 and r18 resistors being soldered witht the terminals too close to the board. Has resoldering them closer to the board alleviated the problem with these? I just had to install my backup igniter board because of a failure on both ignitors stemming from a problematic board which does have the r16 and r18 resistors soldered wway too close the board. None of terminals even stick out the other side.

Last night my stove shut down with #8 flashing. I tried restarting and quickly found the problem. After taking the top feed wheel cover off i watched the feed wheel rotate. It was rotating but not completely. The motor would kick in and the wheel would only rotate a couple of inches. At that rate it would only drop pellets every few minutes. Shut down the stove and unplugged it for 5 minutes. Restarted fine, and is still running fine now. HAs this ever happened before to any of you? Is it signaling something to come?

Gasket good, Will try your suggestion on turning. Thanks mary

My stove ate up 2 ignitors on the same side. I simply unplugged the last one and for the last 2 years it has started just fine on one.

Hello all, 3rd season running this machine and a first for this problem. Fire was very low and I could here that few pellets were dropping in. Removed the plate in the hopper and found that the feed wheel was raised with pellets rolling around underneath it. Removed the four bolts w/springs at the flange and cleaned out underneath then reinstalled wheel. Next day same issue. Repeated same procedure as day before and it has now happened again. Wheel probably needs to be retorqued down. Is there a way to hold the motor shaft while torquing wheel or is that not necessary to achieve proper tension/preload on the wheel?

is there a way to quickly put the old wiki information onto one of those zipdrive things? I'd love to have it available if the internet is down or I don't have a connection. Any tips? THx in advance.