V I have the same furnace as you but I have yet to remove any of the room fans so I'm not sure if there is a easier way........Sorry I can't be of any help here, keep us posted

instead of drilling out the holes you can try soaking the burn pot in a 5 gal bucket of water for a couple of hours that will usually loosen that stuff up

rnlfarwell wrote:


thats what I did with mine, new self tapers right next to the old holes.

315/88 thats seems like a lot better.
you are cleaning behind the two slide doors on each side of the burn pot aren't you? you can get a lot of ash build up in there also.
keep us posted

The only thing I can think off as far as the heat exchanger is that baffle at the top of the fire box the one with all the holes in it. i know some people have played around with removing it and the result seem to be all the heat going up the flue. you didn't do anything with that? like maybe remove it to clean it and not put it back? Not having your exact model I'm assuming you have that baffle its held on by about 4 screws.
also I would try what luke said and reset all the c-codes back to factory and see what happens.

just for the heck of it I just went out and checked the temps on mine.
Running on PR-2 (I have 5 pellets settings PR-1 to PR-5), I believe I'm burning about 7 lbs./hr.
the flue temp on the bare metal pipe as it leaves the furnace is 246 deg and the discharge air temp in the duct about 12" above the top of the furnace is 97 deg.

have you taken the flue complete apart and make sure there are no obstructions? sure seems like something on the order of something pluged to raise the flue temp so fast.
you said the draft fan light is on solid, is that after the exh fan shuts down or before?
just curious how much do they want for a new board?
I have the 6300 which is similar to yours.

tfgrower wrote:


tf things are good here, be better if we have another mild winter like last.

I don't remember the temps on all the settings, so far this year I've just been running on pr-2 and the temp just above the door is about 400.

yes I can adjust the perameters and I have fooled with them over the last 4 years but right now I think I have most of them back on the factory settings.........seems to run the best.

mine is about the same, I can heat the house down to the mid teens if there isn't too much wind. I've actually had it heating the whole house down to 11 deg with no wind at all. anything below that i supplement it with my propane furnace.

i don't know why the ac coil would make a differance?, what was the reasoning behind that?

here's another way to hook your stove up that may work better for you and give you more air flow:

tie the 10" supply into your existing return air duct. then just let the return air from the back of the stove draw out of the basement (you just have the filter on the back of the stove)

Two things you have to do with this setup, you have to run your existing furnace fan whenever the stove is running because you will be using it to help push the heat thru the ductwork, and you need to leave the basement door open any time the stove is running to let the air from upstairs get back to the return opening on the stove.
you can run the furnace fan on your existing furnace by just turning the fan to the "fan on" setting on the thermostat. (assuming you have AC or at least a heat and cool stat)
we had some discussions on this method in the past and some people had there stoves hooked up that way and it seemed to work ok.

so basically your using the furnace fan as a booster fan

try some different things to see if you can get more air flow.

try running it without the filter.

is it possible that the back draft damper is letting the air short circuit? disconnect the return duct and let the stove draw the return air from the basement. make sure the basement door is open so the air can get back to the stove.

tfgrower wrote:


just got a fill from ferrell gas................1.79 pretty much the going rate around here..........amerigas wanted 2.42 ouch, its nice having your own tank. I just said no thanks

+1 on what pete said......... also you haven't added anything new in your house that would creat a negative draft in your house?..........ie like some kind of exhaust system, bath, kitchen, dryer anything that would be pulling air out with noway for the air to get back in and equalize?

I wish I had a good answer for you but I don't. The temps you are getting are pretty close to what I get on PR-2/3 with both fans running. But my stove has a larger burn pot than yours and I may be burning the same amount of pellets on pr-2/3 that you are burning on pr-4/5. On pr-2 I'm burning about 7 lbs./hr and on pr-3 about 9 lbs./hr. I'm not sure what your stove burns on pr-4/5. I'm just trying to compare apples to apples.

How many registers do you have?, you may want to try closing off all of the basement registers, the basement should be plenty warm with the stove down there.
Your stove isn't over heating is it? do you know how to tell?

just a note on the air flow, I don't think you'll ever be able to get anywhare close to the 1100 cfm they advertise. maybe half at best, your not going to get anything even close to the furnace fan on your existing electric furnace.
max cfm out of a 10" duct is about 450 maybe a little more on a short run.
when we designed low pressure ductwork in the trade the max for 10" was 450 cfm and 12" was 750 cfm.
now even if you can figure out a way to move more air thru that furnace its probably not going to help you because they don't have a very good design on the heat exchanger and you'll end up just pushing more air thru it without any heat.
Now that being said you can get some heat out of these furnaces. One thing to remember is your moving less air but it is constant.
you need to make sure you don't have any ostructions in the ducywork or possible ways the air is short circuiting.
take some temp readings and let us know what kind of discharge temps your get?
its not over heating is it?
Please don't think I'm knocking the 6220, I have the 6300 and its pretty close to what you have.
I'm going on my 5th year with my 6300 and its done a pretty good job heating my home and garage.
sorry about any spelling mistakes..........I'm watching the tigers get there buts kicked by sf in the world series

cd just curious where exactly is your back draft damper located?
I don't think there is any adjustment on those fans, if there on there running full blast.
If you have a amp probe you could check the amp draw on the unit when its running, I don't know what the actual amp draw is but you could run the furnace on lowest setting and check it and then on the highest setting and see if there is any difference, there should be if the 2nd fan is coming on.
what kind of discharge temps are you getting?

Corny wrote:


Hi Corny, when you mentioned about not expecting to burn corn this year, it made me think that I didn't even check the price of corn this year , with pellets at $190 per ton, I know that I'm not going to find any corn that cheap.
So its pellets for me. I used the stove the last two nights, its been in the mid 30's here.

besides my corn bin is in the barn and is cover with a bunch of stuff

yeah good to see it back, i've been checking on it off and on all summer and about gave up on it.