OK Pete and AC,

I'm totally confused now.

I've removed the side panel and tried to fit a paper clip in the therm area. It wouldn't fit. The location looked like it had some kind of plastic sleeve over the 2 prongs at the therm location on the panel. I've tried to take a picture of this tiny thing.

Is this what you call a jumper? It doesn't look like the picture Pete sent me the link of a jumper to be removed to install a thermostat.

Please let me know if this is a spacer or what the heck it is and if I should try to fit either a paper clip or a wire into this thing.

Thank you Pete for responding. You were not online when I posted so I made a call out to the group.

I've got the stove running right now but am going to shut it down and see if a paper clip will fit. I should have tried it when AC posted but I'm a little tentative about doing anything with that control panel. I can't afford to replace it right now! LOL

Would an old video game unit (Nintendo) have a board in it I wonder? I have 2 different units in storage that I could tear apart.............mmmmmmmmmmmmm

Let me shut the stove down real quick and see if the paper clip will work. I'll let everyone know.

Have you had to do this AC?

And if a paper clip does NOT fit, any suggestions?

I need advice quickly if possible!

Firepot Pete has been helping me figure out why my 6039 is NOT putting out a lot of heat.

Yesterday he asked if I had a JUMPER on the TStat on the control panel. He sent me the link for a clear picture of the jumper in place from the old forum.

forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=1417...der=asc&start=45

He said that if there was no jumper in place I'm running only 1 heat setting?

Well, I shut down the stove and have the panel layed out and I DON'T have a jumper after all.

The only thing I see is the copper inlet that has a leg on each side of this plug in location. No cross member in place.

So this is my question.............can I use a paper clip to make the jumper?

US Stove told me to use one to direct wire the low limit switch until I received the new low limit switch.

Anybody run across this situation before? If so, what material did you use to make the jumper?

Pete,

I blew the picture I posted up on my computer and it appears the jumper is actually in place for the thermostat posts. The next time I shut down the stove to clean it, I will be taking a real close look at it to verify the jumper is there.

But oh what a difference the rubber connection caps being securely pushed down has made!!

It is wind chill 24 outside right now and in the living room/kitchen it is a balmy 74.5 degrees!!!!!!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH for asking me to check for the thermostat jumper! I would have never thought to check the rubber cap connections on the stove because I just thought it was all in place from the previous owner!

Now I'm wondering if they dislodged them and the stove was heating correctly any more so they just upgraded instead of figuring out what the problem was. But then again, they don't have a FIREPOT PETE ANGEL to help them out! LOL

Thanks again for you thoughts and help!

FirepotPete wrote:

Pete,
oh yes sir ree I'm going through pellets when I change from HR2 to HR8!
Since I had shut down the stove to clean it and I read this post, I took off the side panel and took a picture of the circuit board.
I don't know if what you term a jumper is on there but there are 2 rubber snap connectors to the right of the hook up for a thermostat.
I had never looked at the circuit board before up close. When I saw the 2 rubber snap connectors I automatically tested to make sure there was a good connection. Well..................when I pushed on the first it went down a little bit and I heard a snap/lock sound. I then did the same thing to the 2nd rubber snap connector and heard a snap/lock sound.

I started the stove up and it SOUNDS different and the flame is different!!
After about 10 minutes of running on HR2, I took the temperature and got 145 degrees!

I've attached a picture of the control panel circuit board for you to look at and tell me if what I am calling rubber snap connectors the jumper you are referring to.

FirepotPete wrote:


Thanks for the information Pete! I have made note of original auto settings and have adjusted 220 low and 260 high.

My current fuel feed settings are HR1 = 2.50 and HR9 = 5.50.

FirepotPete wrote:


I just found the instructions for adjusting the DF by pushing DF down and AUX down and then DF up and AUX up.

Here are the settings right now that are running on AUTO:

DF Down = 230
DF UP = 270

The information stated that the DF Down should be at 219 and DF UP should be 270.

So why the heck is my DF Down being on AUTO reading 230??

FirepotPete wrote:


Yes, I have the 4 button panel.

I checked my instant read thermometer and it does register boiling point at 200 degrees.

Right now I have my stove on HR8 and I'm getting 180 degree temperature on air being blown out. I'm using Ozark hardwood pellets.

As far as my DF settings, they are on "automatic". I don't know how to find out what the high/low setting readings are. Can you send me instructions or tell me where to go so I can give you the high/low settings?

the bone wrote:


I had been putting the shaft of the instant read thermometer inside the center blow hole.

I just took a reading with the shaft of the instant read thermometer about 3 inches away from the center blow hole and got a reading of only 130 at HR8.

with my fuel rate at HR1 2.5 and HR9 5.5..............should I increase the fuel rate???

tallcorn wrote:


I'm putting the end of either the meat thermometer or the instant read thermometer in one of the 7 blow holes above the door.

the bone wrote:


How do I measure the heat of the firebox?

I have been looking for a magnetic thermometer to mount to the face of the stove but everyone locally is sold out right now.

All I have here are meat thermometers and an instant read thermometer.

I've invested a lot of time, energy and money on trying to bring this used unit up to standard. I always thoroughly clean the stove after every 6 bags of pellets and cleaning out the exhaust blower, combustion blower, using rubber mallet and beat the sides and back of the fire box (after removing the firebrick), cleaning out the troft behind the back wall through the 2 holes behind the firebrick, exhaust pipes, etc.

I am a new pellet stove owner and have only purchased 2 tons of pellets this winter. The first ton was Indeck hardwood and the current/recent ton is Ozark hardwood.

I just installed a new low limit switch and combution motor and I've gotten a much improved flame/fire!

But, I've had the stove at HR-5 for over an hour now and it is only putting out heated air of 152 degrees (heat taken with instant read thermometer). I would think it should be putting out much hotter air than that! Correct?

My fuel feed rate is: HR1 - 2.5 and HR9 - 5.5.

When I have the stove at HR1 through HR4, I have the damper pulled out from 3/4" to the HR4 setting at 1 1/2".

When I have the stove at HR5 I have the damper pulled out 1 3/4".
When I have the stove at HR8 to HR9, I have the damper pulled out all the way.

I'm wondering if I need to raise the fuel rate more? As I hope you can see in the pictures that the level of fuel in my fire box isn't coming up to the level of the axle of the agitator. So can you advise me if I should have more fuel in my fire box? Could that be my problem? I just don't know what other mechanical problem I could have.

I've attached pictures of the fire and the fire box for you to look at regarding the quality of the fire. It is much easier for you to actually see what kind of fire I have than me trying to explain/describe the type of fire I have.

I thought I would post these pictures to show how my stove performed prior to installing a new combustion blower.

Everyone has been so very helpful and nice with all the advice and responses in my previous posts and I wanted to show everyone what I was dealing with, which wasn’t pretty.

I know I’m a novice and a stumbling student of a pellet stove but even I knew I had problems!

I’ve read so many posts that stated that members are heating their homes with this model of pellet stove.

I’ve invested a lot of time,effort and money into our used 6039 and I’m not getting the result that other’s brag about.
Of course different fuels will give different results, etc. I’m wondering if my unit should be insulated to hold the heat on the heat chambers. I’m curious to find out if everyone’s firebox is insulated or not.

I find it curious that the top front of our firebox has insulation but no where else????

I’ve attached 3 pictures depicting what my 6039 looks like for review and comments/suggestions.

Any comments, suggestions, advice, information would be greatly appreciated.

I ended up buying Ozark Hardwood Pellets from TSC because Home Depot was out of the Bayou Pellets!

On my first bag of the Ozarks, there are 2 things I do not like. 1) they are long pellets! 2) the bags have dust in them from the pellets.

I guess I got spoiled with my first pellet purchase of Indeck's. They were CLEAN and medium sized pellets.

Like I mentioned, my first bag of Ozark's is in my stove now, so we will see.............

AC wrote:


Thank you SO MUCH AC for giving me this detail adaption to the leaf blower! I can't tell you how much it helps me out! I can't wait to get to Home Depot, put everything together and see how much crude comes out of my stove! LOL

I'll do my best to get over to Home Depot and get a couple of bags and let you know.

I couldn't find anywhere on the bag that said "oak"! You are sure they are oak?

I'm wondering if they will burn better than the Indeck. Any thoughts?

AC wrote:


Loved the video! I watch it over and over again! LOL

What size of exhaust pipe do you have? I have the 3" Simpson DuraVent Corn/Pellet Exhaust system.

I hate to order this blower if it will not fit my inner lining pipe or the outer liner pipe!

Input please?