i was told to use powdered graphite on each hopper fill to lube the augers up. put 20lbs. of fuel in, sprinkle graphite ontop of that then top of.

anyone here consider using coal in a mixture? like say maybe 60% corn, 30% wood pellets and 10% pulverized coal. i understand the timing would need to be adjusted. i can get pulverized coal down the road from where i live and was entertaining the idea. my feed lines are copper and as long as the coal chucks are roughly the same size as the pellets and corn going in, i dont see a problem. anyone have suggestions?

i see johnlb you have a powervent. could i have your opinion in the unit and why u decided the powervent over a chimney? can u get them anymore?

ok i guess that was a fruitless effort. file format is not excepted! i ask that anyone who knows the moderator get him to allow the file extension *.pptx. i have alot of detailed pictures and dont feel like adding each picture by itself. time to improve the system gentleman. 21 century is upon us.

Hello all! ive decided to put together a powerpoint presention decribing my system. as i stated earlier, its not operational yet and the pictures you will see are of what is done. i will be glad to add more pictures and maybe when i get more work completed on it. any comments, suggestions or questions are welcome and encouraged.

might be you. i have opened the pictures on 2 different computers without fail.

my future state map. left side has the boiler. 2 heat lines, one to house heating and other dump line for garage. sidearm attachement allows me to preheat the potable water, having 2 main 40gal "hot water storage tanks" feeding straight up to shower and adding a 20 gal heater for kitchen and laundry, 2.5 gal for bathroom sink.

my bandaid fix for heat until the boiler is fully operational. simply took a spare water heater and pump tied in into a closed short loop. background u see the heater exchanger box i built. the plywood used is as old as i am

the single wall chimney from boiler to wall. havent got drywall up yet. will i have to go double wall drywall to be safe? is the draft in an ok placement?

my air pressure test kit. couldve expanded on this by adding a valve with bleeder and an air guage. i used the guage on the air compressor instead.

my apoligies, you cannot see the hopper extension in that picture. ill have to find the one that does or go take some new ones, which i will probly do tomorrow.

ill try to get more detailed pictures of the setup in the future when work doesnt have me so strapped. until then i will to the best of my ablilty explain my setup. first i will say it is a second hand unit i bought real cheep. 100k setup with the side arm attachement. i have yet to fire my boiler up. 3 heating lines with expansion to a forth which i do have plans for the future. my ultimate goal is radiant infloor heating with little forced hot air, but for now have to settle for all hot forced air because that would require a retrofit, and maybe a hole years time to accomplish. it was easier it cut a square hole in the floor of my hallway for a heat exchanger than to crawl in the tiniest crawlspace known to man and run pex tubing and barrier insulation. still not looking forward it! finances have been rough so i had a bangage fix on my heating situation, with my spare pump and water heater i had from last years setup, i tied into the heat exchanger, right underneith it actually. that will get me by until i get the boiler fired up. Came with alot of attachements, plenty of copper pipe, 1" and 3/4" , pumps, valves, heat exchanger with blower and box, which he engineered, as well he made a hopper extension which i believe u can see in the one picture i have so far. only thing wrong was auger motor blown on hopper. impatience and lack of understanding of the timing mechanism was his downfall, and i gladly took it off his hands for the price he asked for. i have the plumbing done well most of it! and engineered my own manual air purge right above the tank. 3 heating lines i have total right now, 2 lines running to the house, 1 set is 1in. copper and the other is 3/4in. copper running from that sidearm attachement to heat the water going to the water heaters. of those the heating line is the only line that is able to have water in it right now, and all pipe that is now barried in ground is tested to over 100psi air pressure. i bought a small portable air compressor and neccessary fittings for the very task of testing. ill post a picture if that tool kit too. tp valve blows between 30lb and 40lb and at room temperature is at 10lb to 12lb i had to preform the lines that were going into the ground. wrapped in radiant barrier then r-19 insulation. i wasnt about to solder an L style formation of pipes(4 total) that go down and back up. heating in order from hot line from boiler is as follows, ouside, staight down to 2 ft undergroung, almost 20ft underground, back up, then to basement, down to drain and fill station, that i also engineered, then to another 10 plus feet of copper leading to a 18inx22in heat exchanger. the hot line is the lowest point of the whole sytem so that is where i fill the system from. from the return line it goes another 10ft back the the basement wall, outside 20 more ft back up into the garage. coming straight that line from the wall leads to a taco 007 pump that pumps water back into the boiler. which i thought was smart, becasue why expose a pump to a higher temperature? a good buddy of mine built the box for the heat exchange and i cut the hole in the floor for the vent grill. pain in the arse that was! the potable water line, 3/4" in the gound and pressure tested as well to over 100psi air. this line is not tied in yet but is setup up so when i have the rest of the plumbing in need i can have it done and running inside an hour. the 3rd line i speak of i want to run in the garage and is not entirely done yet, which is my dump line. this line will have the air scoop and the pressure tank located at the hightest point of the system. the high limit switch attached to the heating line going to the house controls the pump on this line. once the high limit is reached that system will flow heating my garage.im still lacking the auger motor for the hopper, 160 is the lowest i can find and if any of you fine gentleman can point me to a cheaper price i would greatly appreciate it. chimney is also not done because im kind of stuck. details on that, i have a triple wall kit(home depot) framed but not entirely hooked up. still need drywall up and was wondering would two layers of drywall be enough for code? im clueless really need advice on this one. ideally i was planning single wall from boiler to triple wall through wall outside to a double wall stack. i have alumninum siding on the garage outside which is a plus. damper and damper guage suggestions are very welcome and if any one has pictures theyd like to share, awesome! im going to end this very long entry of this forum and look forward to any and all responses over the next couple days, thank you for your time.

curious, nogas, do you mean to say it is ok to remove all 8 lag screws to remove the cap above the flue chamber?

theres one on this website

ok i just watched the video of the cleaning process of the ldj corn boiler. i must say that is NOT how to clean it. removing the plate above the burn pot enables you clean the flue tube straight thru, less work. also did anyone notice the cameraman had to remind him to pull the ash tray out. he wasnt going to do it. and the reason there is a gap in flue tubes is because there is an accessory u can have installed into it that allows you to heat potable water seperate from the heating line. i believe they call this a sidearm. im glad to have this on mine as it will allow me to preheat the water going into my water heaters.

Over the summer i picked up an ldj 100k corn boiler on ebay from a gentleman north of me. Happy with my purchase as i have learned a great deal. Its almost most christmas and i still dont have it up and running. All the plumbing is done, almost 100 ft of it. My setup has the boiler out in the garage with the piping running underground into my basement. So far i only have it hooked to a heat exchanger that i installed underneith the floor in the hallway of my home, a centralized location. Future improvements involve adding radiant floor heating. Im curious if anyone has details on how i should set up the auger timer? Its an omron h3cr. Any suggestions on how the draft control should be installed in the chimney. Im still working on my chimney, going thru the wall outside and up. After that all i need to grab is another auger drive motor and ill be up and running. Id like to burn corn with wood pellets, so any helpful ideas on mixture ratios would be helpful too. Ill try to get more pictures posted, the one i got was takin back in august when i didnt have hardly any plumbing done. Glad to be a part of this forum and looking forward to sharing ideas and opinions with all