Did a experiment this morning. My house was built in 1931. Rock wall cellar blown in instillation, USSC 6039 4 button, factory default settings, stir pot with stirrer, three 3/8 holes drilled in the fak cap and fak installed. I run on a thermostat set on 74, stove is usually on heat setting 5 unless it gets below 0 outside. I put thermostat on 84, stove on setting 8, 20 degrees outside this morning. Hour and a half later living room (12x22) was at 84, kitchen (12x22 heated through 2 1/2 by 6'9" doorway) 80, upstairs bed room over kitchen 72, sons bed room over living room 77. Rosco6039 you should be cooking yourself out of that addition. One good thing is this little experiment got my son out of bed came down complaining it was to hot to sleep.

You should not see much blue in the flame if you are burning pellets a flicker once in a while deep inside flame I think you are burning to hot and sending the heat out the vent. Did you remove the fresh air cap under the burn pot? With the fresh air kit installed and the cap removed you should not have to have the slide draft open at all.

Bluewolf gave this description of what flame should look like best I ever heard:




What heat range did you take the temp at? 8? What hole did you use to take the temp, the center hole is the coolest far side holes the hottest?

Refresh my memory and tell us what settings you are using, Auto or Manual? Draft set at? Room Fan? Clinker or stirrer?

This is the best video I could find to show you what a flame should look like not our stove but fire is hard to take pictures and video of.

I take mine off every spring to do the cleaning. If you are careful you can reuse the gasket that is there. After the 4th year the gasket did rip. I now use high temp silicone to seal this. Red or orange high temp I get mine from Nappa auto store one tube is more the enough to reseal it at least 5 times. Fan removal and installation is not hard and the high temp silicone is sold in auto and hardware stores.

USSC has put out some useful video's here is the link

www.youtube.com/user/TheUSStove?feature=watch

Take the two wires off the vacuum switch and connect them together this will by pass the switch then try to burn above 2, let us know if that works.

Please explain what is happening if you burn above 2. I am assuming you are having same problem light blinking as before, if not let us know. As you increase the heat range the stove increases the vacuum. So you still have a leak or blockage somewhere in the system. If you have a barbecue brush lightly run it around the door seal to fluff the gasket. Check your hopper seal to see if there are any pellet or corn pieces jammed into the rubber. If you have some orange or red high heat silicone put some around the stirrer rod bushing as you do not use it. You might have to remove the exhaust blower and clean in that area sometime fly ash builds up in that area and just can not be cleaned without blower removal or the leaf blower trick. Just pulled a friends exhaust blower from a harmon, because he was getting the lost of vacuum and it is now running great.

Estimates say corn will be down to 4.00 so I will be burning it again hopefully next heating season. Command_z there is less action on forum because you have fixed everyones problems for this year and got everyone burning the right way. Keep up the good work.

kmdfarm wrote:


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You are also pulling cold outside air into the room blower, it is only a couple inches away from the FAK, so some of that 20 to 30 degree air was being blown into your house.

The holes behind the fire board look like this:



I have plugs in mine you get them at local hardware they are 1 1/2 plugs for electric breaker boxes, I just remove them when cleaning behind wall and then reinstall them. They are not necessary but seem to increase air temp a little when installed.



When I took off the FAK cap under the fire pot I found I had to much draft, FirePotPete adjusted his by changing the draft settings. I adjusted mine by drilling 3 holes in the same size freeze plug from auto parts store and reinstalling it. I then use slide to fine tune fire. The Freeze plug size is 2 7/64. This is one of my failed attempts at drilling 3 straight 3/8 inch holes in the cap.



Does your stove have the slide damper? If it does make sure you remove the two screws on the inside so you can close it all the way. They are there to prevent you from closing it all the way or pulling it completely out. Previous owner might have removed these already.

rosco6039 wrote:


Sorry had to go to work, just got home.

There should be a piece of aluminum hose between the rear wall to the fire pot. Pictured below. You can buy the hose at your local auto store, same type used from air breather to manifold on vehicles. Also there is a cap under the fire pot that needs to be removed.

That is why firepotpete is better than I am, never thought about someone having the jumper removed. The back of your control panel should look the same as this, the jumper needs to be in place if you do not have a thermostat hook up.

This is from firepotpete in different thread:

You can change the feed rate, that will turn the auger more or less times per minute. If you push the HR down button and AUX down button at the same time you will see the setting for the lowest feed rate, it should be 2.0pph if the board is at the factory default.
While that number is showing you can push the AUX down button by itself and the number will go down, that will change your lowest feed rate so that you use less fuel. Then you need to push "ON" for the new setting to be set. You will need to push "ON" after any adjustment to take place.
You may also need to adjust the high feed rate lower. Just push the HR up button and AUX up button at the same time and then AUX down to bring the high feed rate down.
Note before you adjust anything what the setting were before you adjust them.

It is hard to push both hr up and aux up or hr down and aux down at the same time it took me about 10 tries to get the up and 17 times to get the down. Factory reset should work. Give it about a hour of burning to see if it is running right.

To check your feed rates:
HR and AUX up will show upper limit default is 6.00
HR and Aux down will show lower limit. default is 2.00
Press ON to save after changing limit.
Press AUX up and down to reset stove to defaults.

Check you feed rates and let us know what they are.If you are truly burning a bag every 12 hours on 9 your top feed rate is around 3.33 way to low. The only two rates you have to adjust is bottom and top the rest adjust according to those two settings. If you check before you do the factory reset let us know what the settings were then do the factory reset and let us know if they changed.

Sounds like you feed rates are set to low. First step is to push Aux Up and Aux Down at the same time and hold for 3 seconds this will reset the stove to factory settings.

I agree mine is a ups, for a 1500 your taking $600+.

Almost a $354 mistake.

www.usstove.com/index.php?route=product/...8&product_id=289

Sorry to answer your question you always want to go to at least one size bigger then require. 1500 would work. If someone is always available to hook up power during power outage just getting a 1500 inverter would work.

Here is one link to a good 1500 ups.

www.invertersrus.com/trippliterv1512ul.html

Tripp lite is one of the top companies and I run a tripp lite 750 on my pellet stove it draws around 400 and with one deep cell battery it has lasted 8 hours before I got home and started generator.

If you look around you could find a cheaper ups, amazon has a 2400 for less the the above 1500.

www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-APS2424-Invert...0+watt+auto+transfer

The manual says it draws 1100 or that it needs a 1100 ups backup?

wd-40 not so good for lubing electric motors, 3&1 oil is better and anderoil is the best. They talk about it in this post. Two links supplied by some of the best corn burners on this forum. Be aware anderoil is pricey but new motors can cost from 80 to 135 each.

www.iburncorn.com/new-forum/32-nesco-ama...imit=10&start=60

During the burning season you can just vacuum/clean the squirrel cage to keep it running at its best. You should not have to clean/remove exhaust fan unless something really gets plugged. After the heating season you can remove both fans to clean, if you are careful you should be able to reuse both gaskets. If they are to damaged you can use red or orange silicone from auto store to make a new gasket, they are a high temp for gasket making. Also at the end of the season after you clean everything you should spray everything on the interior of the stove with a fogging oil, cooking spray also works. Good idea to spray inside the exhaust while you have it off. The spray helps prevent rust during the summers heat and humidity. Have you read the Wiki on how to install the grease zerk, also a good thing to do then you can grease motors at the end of the season cleaning.