I have been burning for 4 years in my PB150 now... I have never really had any problems with the burn pot other than one small crack around the top of circular edge. I just sand blasted it and did a quick weld to seal it back up. That being said I had expected worse when first starting to use the PB150 since these pots are under an incredible amount of heat stress. How often have you had to replace the pots or weld them? Also, do you use the same pellets every year? Maybe it has something to do with these...

Two yellow wires coming out of the rhs of the control box... if you use a room thermostat these should be wired to it. If not they should be shorted together so that the control box uses only the aquastat to determine when to kick into high burn.

Sting... that is actually what I was eluding to in my previous post when I asked the OP how it was wired and if he used a room tstat to control the boiler, but he never answered that question. I actually have my PB150 wired just as you mentioned and have always had it this way... but that is only because my four heat zones are wired into my oil fired boiler and the PB150's sole purpose in life is to keep that one at temp... i.e. between 160 and 200 deg. In terms of it blowing up... won't happen, as I am sure you already know the boiler shuts down when it starts to over heat and there is supposed to be a relief valve installed on the back in case it goes over 30psi.

Sounds to me like a bad control board... You could call Frank at Fireside Chatts in Syracuse. Or call Pinnacle directly... They have always been very helpful and may sell you parts directly.

Also, by the way that model number you gave is not the furnace model. That is a solid-state control box for Traeger (aka Pinnacle) boilers and furnaces. I am suspecting that perhaps you have a GBU70 furnace?

Your description almost sounds like it is working as it should. When you mention setting the thermostat, is that a room thermostat or the furnace thermostat? The furnace should go into high burn mode until the set point of the furnace thermostat is reached. At that point it will pilot until a room thermostat calls for heat or the furnace temp drops below the low limit.

Ok, from what you say the boiler is not kicking into high burn mode. When you start up the cold boiler it should feed pellets continuously until it reaches the high set point on the boiler thermostat. If it goes into pilot immediately before reaching that temp then something is wrong. What changed between last year and this year? If the pellets were too moist you would know it as tallcorn said, and that would not cause the boiler to go into pilot mode right away. How is the system wired? Do you use a room thermostat to control the heat?

Sting,
Right now when I clean the fan I pull the impellers right off the shaft. I give it a good scrub down and then put it all back together. It would be nice to just swap in a new set of impellers and then get the boiler fired back up and then clean the dirty blades after. Also, I'd like to have some spares just ion case...

I would like to have some spare fan impellers for my PB150. I have the new non-squirrel cage style and am wondering if anyone knows of any good suppliers to find these. For cleanings I could then just swap on a new clean impeller and be back up and running a lot faster.

What do you guys use for replacing the smoke chamber gasket? It seems like mine may be letting a small amount of air in since I can see streaking on the smoke chamber lid when I take it off and flip it over.

Seems to coincedental that you also had an overtemp issue before this happened. Perhaps the internal temp reaching 250 deg blew the seals in the fire tubes. Does your model have a high pressure blow-off valve? If so did it release any pressure after the over-temp? I am betting the two are related, so it seems to me you just had a little bad luck that day.

Sting, want to share the details on what you ended up doing to make feed cup speed adjustable?

Yes, I did see this post when I went searching. I am sure that I could use one of these but they don't carry 1.5rpm or 6rpm motors, which are the factory unit speeds; according to the manual feed cup is 1 rev every ~45 sec and auger is 1 rev every ~10 sec. They do carry a 1.6rpm CCW 120VAC gearbox motor and a 4.6rpm CCW 120VAC gearbox motor. Is anyone using these successfully on a Traeger PB150?

We are both burning pellets. I told him to cycle the power a few times to see if restarting the motor gave it enough torque to break any jammed pellets that might be freezing up the motor. He did that and heard a snap (pellet breaking?) so I thought that he just had a jammed feeder cup. However, that was last night and again this morning the feed cup motor was not running and was extremely hot to the touch. He told me there was nothing jammed in the feed cup causing the motor to freeze up...

Anyone else having problems with the auger and feed cup motors on the PB150? My uncle and I have both had the unit for 2 years now and year one he had to replace the auger motor only after a few weeks and I had to replace the feed cup motor shortly after that. Now it has been 1 3/4 heating seasons since then and his feed cup motor has now died. From experience how long do these motors last? Should we be replacing them every 1-2 years? The replacement parts from a dealer are $150 per motor, are there any drop in replacements that can be bought elsewhere. Any other words of wisdom when dealing with these motors?

Here are the pics of the new fan I got from bruce at Pinnacle, plus one of my nice fire I just got going after cleaning the fan and turbulators. I have been using this fan for a month now.

Yes, in fact it was me on the other site that mentioned the new fan. I think you might be right about a control board update for the new motor load since my draft really doesn't seem to change that much between high/low, especially when compared to the old squirrel cage.

Also, I have to do the opposite with my new fan vs. the old squirrel cage, i.e. I have to have the draft slider shut more because it is producing a higher more consistent draft. I especially notice a difference when the unit is idling as the draft is about 2x what it used to be, although perhaps that it is due to the new motor on the fan not slowing down as much???

Sting, I forgot about getting pictures of the new draft fan from Pinnacle. I have my fan pulled off right now so I'll snap a few and upload them this weekend. Btw, cleaning the fan is simple now and the ability to pull the motor/fan off of the housing lets me clean my whole chiney without disconnecting it from the boiler. I simlpy snake the brush rods through the chimney from the inside and then attech the brush from the outside and then hook my cordless drill up to the end of the rod while pulling the brush back in, works great!