We had some below zero weather and I was able to burn on level 7 for 3 days straight. Thanks again for the help.

Corny:

Thanks for the hint. I do have one of those 'better' filters on the stove. I will remove it temporarily (and replace it with an economy one) and try upping the level past 4 as soon as the air temp outside cools down again so I need it.

I have a Bixby 115. If I turn heat level past 4 it shuts down with a 3 light blinking.
I have checked and cleaned stove pipe, flue cap, exhaust fan, and done all the recommended cleaning. It periodically has a 2-3 light condition but seems to run fine with it. Stove runs just fine for up to a week between cleanings as long as I keep the thermostat at 4 or bellow.

Wilkes, really "if tuned right it will never jam"? I wonder if anyone can say their stove has never jammed. I have adjusted the paddles, tuned the stove in too numerous ways to count, installed new dump motor, yet I will state the opposite. "There is no way possilbe to consistantly run the Bixby 115 without it jamming during the clinker dump." I shut my stove down every Sunday for cleaning. In five years it has never run from one Sunday to another without jamming. Usually it averages about 3-5 jams a week. I have just come to the conclusion that jamming is part of its failings and because of that there is no way the stove would be my only source of heat.

Bixby 115

During my regular weekly cleaning I notice that even after I run the scrapers up and down multiple times there is still a good amount of black gunk on the convection tubes. I am thinking the heat transfer would be a lot better if the tubes weren't coated with this soot.

Is there any way to clean the tubes with some kind of cleaner that would do better than just running the scrapers?

Before I shut down for the spring I tried a degreaser. It cleaned the tubes up but nowhere near to the point I could see the metal for the tubes.

Any ideas of something else that could be used to clean?

Per instructions above I aligned the lower burn paddle hole with the hole through to the ash pan.

Not sure if I did it right but I would add to the instructions above:
Turn the stove on
Hold in the door swtich
Wait till the lower burn paddle moves from left to right, then pauses. At that moment let go of the door switch.

At that point you should be able to see how the hole on the lower burn paddle aligns with the hole to the ash dump drawer.

If needed
Remove arm connected to the motor.
Manually align hole from lower burn paddle to the ash dump drawer.
Now adjust arm per instructions above

Thanks to all

I started the stove and it has burned for 48 hours now, dropping clinkers as it should.

Thanks guys. Once it shuts down again I will try to align the paddles first. I just cleaned it yesterday and I did look like the lower paddle hole didn't quite line up with the whole into the ash pot when the paddle was going from left to right and was in the far right position.

Bixby 115
Newest software
Burning 100% corn
FR +2 FS 0
Level 5
Have been bumping up FR slowly to get past clinker jamb. Started at FR 0.
Clinker 1 inch thick, cupped up around the edge, grey.
Now the following consistantly occurs:
I start up stove
Runs to first ash dump - but no clinker drops, I look in ash pan nothing
Runs to next ash dump - get a clinker jamb and light 7, stove shuts down
Double clinker - seems to be two distinct clinkers one off set from the other by a 1/8 of an inch or so.
Repeat

blume's e-mail : blume@pa.net

I got my protective screen for my Bixby 115 from Buckeye Corn Stoves.

www.buckeyecornstoves.com/id68.html

Great to deal with!!

Since I changed the pipe during the summer,I took it all off looking for some kind of obstruction and found none.
Termination cap is from Buckeye Corn stoves.

I took the burn plate out, it was seated fine.

I removed the convection tube cover plates and even though I cleaned it throughly at the end of the season(even coated it with cooking oil to stall corrosion) there was a lot of soot(I think), some of it in big chunks(3/4 of an inch across, paper thin, crumbled when I touched it) behind the convection tubes.
I really hope this was soot. The reason I say that as the tubes now have a reddish brown color in places where I scraped the tubes with the paddles. I hope that doesn't mean the protective coating on the covection tubes are gone????

I cleaned all the debris out and put everything back together.

I set the FS to 0 and the FR to 1 and started the stove.

It has run now through 2 ash dumps at level 4 with no problems.

Thanks for the post.
Burn pot, and holes in the lower burn paddle were cleaned before I started the fire. I also removed feeder wheel and cleaned it before the first fire, also just checked it now and it is seated like it should be.
New pipe has a much tighter seal that the old pipe.

The burn pot has overflown the 3 three times I have tried a fire.
Installed new exhaust piping before starting the fire for the first time this season. No elbows just 6 feet of straight pipe with a new vent cap.
Latest software installed.
1st attempt - feed 1 3/4 fan 0 - just like I did last year
When I could see that the pot was filling up, in increments I turned the feed rate back to 0 waiting 20 minutes between each change. Still kept filling up the burn pot till the corn smothered the fire and the number 2 light came on.
2nd attempt - feed -1 fan 0
When I could see the pot building up, in increments I turned the feed rate back to -2. Still kept filling up with the same reaction as before.
3rd attempt - feed -2 fan 0
When I could see the burn pot filling up I went as far as a feed rate of -2 1/2 but still the same overflow.
I know corn is dryer than last years corn.
Corn was cleaned.
Temp 30-40 F.
Temp setting was 4.

Any suggestions welcome. As much as I have moved the feed rate back it is hard to believe that is the problem. Corn seems to be being fed at a normal rate with the normal pause between each feed.