Could you clarify the how and what? ie did you increase or decrease the length of TC in the exhaust, and second, what do you use to fill the hole and hold the TC in position? Also, is the TC bent where it enters the tube, and if so, does one risk damaging it if one straightens the TC to insert it deeper into the exhaust tube? Thanks.

just another fyi. I had to replace bearings last month. Purchased a pr of SKF 608 explorer bearings on ebay for $10. Had them in two days. I like to have a backup set on hand!

First thought is that the new bearings are bad. Might replace them again and see what happens.

Hi all. This week's arctic cold confirmed my suspicion that the current Bixby stove (year two) is not burning pellets at or near maximum rate, unlike Bix number one stove in previous years. Both stoves run 2.06, horizontal 3 ft exhaust, same pellets (I stocked up several years ago). As Bix number one is currently in the neurological ward, I cannot view its programming. Before I alter fuel tables or other parameters, I'd like some information. First, current stove running on level 8, fan -2; feed +2. Going thru 80 lbs pellets/day (3.4lb/hr). Thermocouple reads 140-144. W/ my first bix, I regularly achieved overtemp pullback on level 8. Selected fuel table is wood, rich. For all levels, the fan and feed numbers are the same; 9 for feed, a higher number for fan. Corn table values do vary w/ level. As I only looked at the previous stove's program once prior to its nervous breakdown, I can't compare values. Does anyone offhand know the numbers in the original programming? Second, what is the difference between wood, lean vs wood, rich? To further support my suspicion it's the feed values, not the thermocouple, is that this stove's convection fan cut out multiple times on L1 and L2. Corny and Mr T suggested lowering the 25% fan setting to 30. I also changed 100% fan to 130 for the higher settings. Problem solved.

Any info welcome; I want as much info as possible before playing w/ the fuel tables.

I have used 608 bearings from NAPA and the SKF bearings. The SKFs were installed last week; mine were made in Bulgaria. Also for those of us who are tool ignorant, the retaining clip in the fan is an external snap ring. One can get a tool (snap ring plier) to insert/remove this thing. I learned this after installing the bearings. Also, be certain that the inner spring washer has the convex surface directed toward the bearing. I inadvertently put it in concave side down, and it generated a metallic ticking noise. Reversed it and all is well.

update and more "how to" questions. Replaced bearings today. Have an intermittent metallic chatter which I've not noted before. Not the high pitched squeal associated w/ failing bearings. All fasteners tight; possibly the dust cover/seal on the motor came loose or ??? If it worsens, I'll remove, check, and reinsert.

Suggest that one removes the infamous screw first. The 1/4 drive, universal joint, and 3" minimum extension made that relatively easy. New "how to" questions. What is the correct way to seat the bearings? I press w/ my thumb. Is it safe to gently tap either the old bearing against the new, or use a socket w/ outside diam. approx. the same, and tap that, or ? I had trouble getting one bearing seated such that I could replace the metal spacers and C retaining clip. Is there a relatively easy way to reinstall the retaining clip? I used an 8mm socket, pressed down, and used my leather awl on the open end and finally got it.

Last question: longevity of replacement bearings. Has anyone tried ceramic? Should they last indefinitely? To date I've used NAPA (1.5 - 2 years/ set). Today I used SKF. Have the VBX bearings in reserve.

Thanks all!

Hi all. New Bixby has started the dreaded squeal, so preparing to replace bearings. I would like to know what tool people have used to remove the screw near the firewall on the exhaust side of the housing; the one blocked by the exhaust and thermocouple wire. I replaced bearings on Bix number one, and that screw was very difficult to access. Neighbor mechanic loaned me a 1/4 in universal joint and 3" extension bar; it's not easy, but I can turn it slightly w/ that setup.

Thanks in advance!

Can I change the fan setting via bixcheck while the stove is running, or does it need to be off? Thanks.

It's doing it again! Just connected the laptop and am attempting to log the data. What I noticed while watching the telemetry, is that the thermocouple value drops from 162 to 138 over approx 5 min; the 2-3 lights blink early in this process, the exhaust fan reading stays constant, and the convection fan stays at 78% or above. AFter the convection fan stops, the telemetry window says the fan is increasing. When the fan restarts, the telemetry states fan at 90+ percent. Board temp starts at 21C; ends at 25C. It is due for cleaning tomorrow, so I'll clean it today. As next week is to be in the teens, I'd like to get this resolved ASAP.
Blume; you might be getting a phone call! Thanks all.

Update. Scenario described in opening post continued for at least 4 hrs. As smoke/CO alarms checked out, I left stove on o/n. It was normal in the am, 7 hrs later. Ran bixcheck; checksums fine; boxes green; fuel data appeared ok. If/when it does it again, I'll try to log the temp data Corny suggested.

Last Sunday I might have discovered the root cause of the ash dump problems it's had from day one: it is missing both bolts on the right side of the compartment which thread through the stove shell base and the solid metal plate which is under the ignitors and burn pot/ashdump mech. The holes are not aligned, so if I can replace said bolts, it might reposition parts and resolve the dump arm and top paddle resistance. Anyone know the specs for said bolts? As this stove was moved around a lot for home show displays, I suspect they became loose and fell out.

Green, I am not clear - did you use the dry graphite on the paddles or did you disassemble the burn drive motor? Thanks!

I'm running 2.06; short horizontal, -2 +5 with 3/4 of the airwash blocked. I've had an 8 pt spread w/ some pellets. If it works, it's good!

Help! New stove, 5 weeks of use; 4 years experience w/ previous Bixby 115 stove. Reviewed this problem in the Wiki (thanks Corny!). Bixby 115, sn in the 9000's, 2 ft horizontal bixby vent, running 2.06 (same software I used w/ other stove), burning pellets (same as w/ other stove). Last Sunday, and again tonight, stove running on level 2. I hear the convection fan stop. Stove top gets very hot. Lean lights 2,3 sometimes start to blink. Exhaust fan running slowly. Wait approx 4 minutes, then convection fan comes on, exhaust fan speeds up, stove begins to cool down. Checked filter (new). Last Sunday I shut down the stove. Tonight in the last 90 minutes the fan has shut down 4 times. I have both side panels off and filter removed since the first shutdown. Changed to level 1. After the 3rd and 4th shutdown, it only ran a few minutes before lights 2,3 began to blink and the convection fan stopped. Feed wheel continues to run. All connections on the board look good. Uh oh. While I'm typing this lean lights on again, and fan is stopping. For last Sunday and this one, stove had been running 4 to 5 days. Checked and brushed vent - all good. Suggestions?

DLS (Buckeye Corn Stoves) sells Bixby pipe.

I am going to try and reload software today. Can it be done w/ the stove unplugged? My stove is malfunctioning during diagnostics when plugged in. Thanks!

It's best to keep the fan negative when burning pellets so ash doesn't blow out of the pot.

Hi Buschwacker

I purchased mine at NAPA; they're size 6082Z or 608ZZ. The Z's mean that they're sealed.

year four; 4 brands of wood pellets, software 2.06. Once I ran the stove w/ neg fan, no problems. You might have a large range between your fan and feed (ie -4/+4) - no worries. Also DLS has a high temp silicone seal to replace the original one. Unlike the original which wore significantly in the first year, this one is still almost perfect - 3 yrs later.

Great to hear from you Quark! My horizontal vent modification has worked well for my setup. However, I do have a question re: exhaust leaks and stove performance. An area dealer who trained in MN w/ JET, installs his stoves w/out any RTV sealant. Says he's never had a problem. Both installations I've seen consist of at least one elbow from the stove to an inside chimney, then flexible ss liner connected to the exhaust and run to the roof. He runs the stoves on software 2.02. Comments? I'm surprised that it works as I've read numerous forum entries about inconsistent burns which resulted from slight gaps or leaks betw. combustion and intake air w/in the pipe.

Fireblade, still trying to figure out how to get the pics into the post! The first attached picture is the north side of the house after the first season w/ the stove, using the Bixby 2nd gen. endcap. The second picture was taken today; 2.5 yrs later, w/ the modified exhaust. Siding has not been washed since Jun 2008; note the algae.

Fireblade; the Bixby termination cap base, which is the round "disc", has the fresh air intake slots on the reverse side, facing the house. Had 3+ days of 30-40 mph north wind over the holidays - no problem and siding still clean (vent on the N wall). Just be sure that the highest point of the exhaust opening is lower than the bottom of the horizontal pipe. I should have pictures of before and after of the siding if you're interested.