joemeag wrote:


Keep the plate closed that came with your kit to cover your old blower. You need to adjust your airflow to the burnpot which is located here on the 7100 models.

Sell the 10 tons of beans and buy 20 + tons of corn.

Things are running good, A couple day ago I started the corn burner up and ran it for about 5 hours. If I were home more i would probably have it running more, but have been playing temperature control with my blinds/windows. I got up this morning and it was 58° So i think its time for some full time warmth.

Time to check in for the fall of 2012. With the price of corn I would imagine that interest in the draft kits is going to be pretty high this year. I can purchase good pellets for 190 a ton.

So why didnt you mention it before you crapped all over my offer to the guy? I have noticed thats kind of your M.O on these boards though.
One hijacked post
Two hijacked post's

If your going to be a big time dealer why don't you do it on your own merits and not the insinuation of wrong doing by others. Personally I would let my stove rot before i was forced to buy parts from a dealer like that.

I have an extra 7100 firepot I used in my 2100 that I'll sell for $85.00 plus actual shipping/tracking/delivery-confirmation from 53594.



Here is a link to more pictures.7100 Burn pot photo's

Thats the one that these guys are looking for I think. The ones used in snowflames,amaizablaze and all the other ones are 1-10s potentiometer timers. Some one out there makes 1-20s timers also. A friend of mine inadvertently bought a 1-100s timer by mistake once. The problem was that it is to hard to fine tune your feed rate with such a long set timer.

exhaust pipe obstruction ? I have the external mounted fan and mine plugged up the safety grate on the exhaust fan. It was gummy almost like a creosote buildup.

When you add a negative draft kit you also do away with the internal combustion fan. The reason being is that you do not have positive pressure inside the stove that could possibly make your flame go towards the drop-chute/hopper box causes the pellets or any other drier materials to start on fire. Basically the combustion air is getting "pulled' out of the stove and not "pushed" into it.

I remember reading sometime/somewhere that the reason for the secondary fan being separate from the larger one is an issue with the exhaust temps running to cool and causing condensation on the intake air ? Does anybody think this would be an issue with the negative draft kit ? I would just like mine to be on all the time like the larger blower fan in the back. Seems like a lot of wasted heat going up and away without that fan running.

Its either the fuel control or the thermodisc for the auger. Either can be tested with a multimeter.

Thanks

How big of a CFM fan is it that they use on the back of a 7100 model.

2manband wrote:


So if you didnt have water pipes and there was access to a driven-in ground rod what would you do ?

kennedy784 wrote:


Self tapping screws like he mentioned.

I use the screws that no-gas uses, for the wire I use stuff from the wire feed welder just because I have a lot of it. I ground it to the copper rod driven in the ground outside.

I have burned the same pellets in two different stoves. With one the clinker is semi bonded and the other one its all ash. I'm petty sure that firepot airflow is the deciding factor in both. Either way I use an old slotted metal scoop from the kitchen to remove the clinker/powder from the firebox with both units. If I used a metal wire/bolt etc all I would come up with is the metal wire/bolt and that it.

If you snapped off the screw head and drilled out any bur and can move it in and out 1/2-1" I would put some penetrating oil in your hopper and work it in. if you can move it another quarter of an inch you will have it.

After you take the combustion blower out there is a "grate" of sorts on the intake side of the housing. I covered it with foil tape a little at a time until I got the burn I wanted. I had to remove the cover that replaced the blower a few times to adjust, but it wasn't to big of a deal. If memory serves It was about 1/2 covered by the time it was all said and done.