you have a real head scratcher G37. Again I am just speculating as I own a 6220, but I know on mine if I run the exhaust fan in manual, I have to be very diligent if I change the feed rate. If I get mine set and running consistent at say pr-3, then bumping it to pr-4 will set off a series of exhaust tweeks to find that sweet spot for nice even combustion. That's why I went back to auto on the exhaust fan but slowed the pulses down overall. It still ramps up with feed rate, but on a overall slower pace.

Is there a chance that you got into your c-codes and changed that U-1 parameter? Again, I don't know how your board works, but maybe if you can, just reset to all factory settings and see if it changes. Then start re-tweeking from there. Keep us posted, I would really like to know what it finally takes to get her purrin' again, good luck.

OK, this the fourth season, got ya. I can only think of one other thing that is not gonna cost anything, maybe you've already done this, but a thorough cleaning? From the exhaust fan housing to the end of the duravent, and a good scrape and clean of the heat exchanger. Other than that, I don't know, maybe see if USSC will test your circuit board for (hopefully) a small fee. That 160 reading on a dead cold furnace sounds suspect for sure.

certainly looks like you've covered all the bases for trouble shooting. I don't own this particular model so this is just speculation, but are you exhausting into 3" or 4"? I just wonder if it's 3" then it just can't handle 9 or above for the feedrate. What is the spec on the exhaust duct thermistor? If it is a "open at 550f" then it is working properly as a safety shutdown.

My furnace will be in it's 3rd season of "hibernation" this winter. With corn through the roof and pellets up in price too, I made the call to go back to wood for now. So the memory of the settings I dialed in for mine are somewhere between fuzzy and gone forever. I know for sure that I slowed the draft fan pulses down, and I reprogrammed the ramp up times to take longer so the heat exchanger could get a little hotter before the second fan kicked on. There was much discussion back a few years ago about c-codes and how to access them and what changed what so you can find alot of info there. Keep in mind everybody's install is unique so it's just guidelines to start then your own personal tweaking. Theses 6220s will put out some heat. Just a word of warning if you start messing with these parameters, stay connected at the hip and babysit that sucker until your absolutely sure the changes you made are safe.

One other thing, the isolation panel is to isolate the cold air return, maybe that's what you meant, but some people also have an isolated fresh air intake for the draft of the fire, if you have a tight house, you might want to consider this also.

hope this helps, they are a nice unit with some tweaking

As far as the fans go, they are either on or off. The only variable is, lower temp settings only call for 1 fan to run, upper call for both fans to run.

I made my own isolation panel with some 10" aluminum flashing, did a little trim here and trim there to get it to fit and then filled in all my gaps with that red high temp silicone.


That is very interesting on the actual flow limits of 10" ductwork, so even though we have two 550's spinnin', we ain't gonna get that air flow comin through.

Oh, and cds, one more thing, on mine, I didn't get real high plenum temps until I backed off the draft fan pulses a little. I couldn't get over 110 degrees with both fans running, but when I started backing off on the draft fan, it bumped up to 135. My glass got dirty quicker, but what the heck it's in the basement, don't need to see the fire other than just to make sure it's maintainin' in the pot.

I still check in from time to time, but I went back to burning wood last winter and will again this winter. Corn is too much money, pellets are 200 a ton around here which isn't terrible, but I got free access to wood so even though it's more work, it's free. The old 6220 sits cold for now.

I also have a 6220, I know that on the lower settings when only one fan is being called on to circulate air, that the other one still spins. It looks like it's running but it's not. After you light it, as it's coming up to temp on it's way to hr-5, you should be able to hear the second fan come on. Depending on you're settings, it's when it transitions from 2 to 3. You can press a display button on the side panel and you will get rf-1 or rf-2. (room fan) Soooooo, I guess what I would do, is fire it up, pull up a chair with your favorite beverage, listen for it to kick on the second fan, (remember the little dash will blink during transition) if it gets up to temp and you never heard the second fan kick on, press the display to make sure it called for it, if it did, pop the back panel and probe the fan terminals with a multi-meter, if both fans are showing 120ac but one of them isn't running under it's own power, you need a new fan. If you have verified that both fans are under power and operating normally, then it's time to look at restrictions in duct work or filter or something along those lines. I know on my furnace, it is no where near the air that is circulated when my lp furnace is running, but that has alot stronger fan than these twin 550's.

PS, do you have an isolation panel inside your fan compartment or are your fans exposed to the rest of the interior of the furnace? Do a search on here, if you don't have this, you will get soot throughout your house. Stupid design.

thanks, that makes sense!

This is a listing of area grain elevators and their current pricing. I guess I don't understand the difference between corn and new crop corn. Also, what does basis mean? Thanks.
Also, when I called the one closest to me, they only had one price for corn, I asked about new crop, they said there is only one price.

Morning Star Grain - Lennon, MI
Commodity Price Basis Date
Corn $6.19 -0.4 2012-01-03
New-Crop Corn $5.30 -0.6 2012-01-03
Soybeans $11.63 -0.65 2012-01-03
New-Crop Soybeans $11.34 -0.85 2012-01-03
Wheat (SRW) $6.02 -0.55 2012-01-03
New-Crop Wheat (SRW) $6.47 -0.45 2012-01-03
Wheat (SWW) $6.07 -0.5 2012-01-03
New-Crop Wheat (SWW) $6.67 -0.25 2012-01-03

ADM - Webberville, MI
Commodity Price Basis Date
Corn $6.29 -0.18 2011-12-30
New-Crop Corn $5.43 -0.44 2011-12-30
Soybeans $11.58 -0.41 2011-12-30
New-Crop Soybeans $11.21 -0.83 2011-12-30
Wheat (SRW) $6.38 -0.15 2011-12-30
New-Crop Wheat (SRW) $6.56 -0.3 2011-12-30

CPS - Henderson, MI
Commodity Price Basis Date
Corn $6.18 -0.41 2012-01-03
New-Crop Corn $5.30 -0.6 2012-01-03
Soybeans $11.57 -0.71 2012-01-03
New-Crop Soybeans $11.29 -0.9 2012-01-03
Wheat (SRW) $6.12 -0.45 2012-01-03
New-Crop Wheat (SRW) $6.37 -0.55 2012-01-03
Wheat (SWW) $6.17 -0.4 2012-01-03
New-Crop Wheat (SWW) $6.62 -0.3 2012-01-03

Frutchey Bean - Oakley, MI
Commodity Price Basis Date
Corn $6.29 -0.3 2012-01-03
New-Crop Corn $5.40 -0.5 2012-01-03
Soybeans $11.53 -0.75 2012-01-03
New-Crop Soybeans $11.34 -0.85 2012-01-03
Wheat (SRW) $5.97 -0.6 2012-01-03
New-Crop Wheat (SRW) $6.42 -0.5 2012-01-03
Wheat (SWW) $5.97 -0.6 2012-01-03

Is there a way to get rid of the top part of the page? The part that has the tabs that when you hover over them, they pop up at you and are really annoying. Thanks.

thanks for the replys, I like the idea of buyiny and having the elevator store it till fall. October future just mean best guess what it will cost next Oct. and you buy on that? Under 5 bucks would be great.

Watching the commodity price of corn, I see it has come down here in mid-mich. Sitting at just under 6 bucks a bushel which is around 220 per ton. If it drops below 200 per ton it would be a good time to grab some for next year, but all I have is my old gravity wagon to keep it in, if I tarp it good, would it keep till fall or do I need airtight/watertight/bugtight storage?

Glad to see US Stove is putting plates in there now to isolate the room fans from the rest of the chamber. My 6220 didn't come with that so I had to make my own. My problem arose when one really cold day I had her cranked up full throttle and it got so hot right at the exhuast blower housing it ignited some pellet fines that was building up below the feed auger, which is convienently located right straight above it. Set off our smoke detectors, scared the heck out of the wife, made me miss some football. Anyway, pulled the panel off the non-control board side and seen a built up pile smoldering and sure enough right there in the same open area is the room circulation fans just sucking all that soot and smoke right on up into the house. So I got the mess cleaned up, made up an isolation panel, now after heating season is done, Im going to pull the feed auger out and see if theres anything I can do to make a better seal so the dust can't get through in the first place.

If you are running your draft fan in manual mode, the 350 setting is not going to change the amount of draft. That is for auto. And yes, the outside temperature affects what heat setting you should have your stove set at.

on free standings, your a little bit limited on what you can do. It's best to put 'em in a main room of your house, and hope you have enough open floor plan for distribution to other parts without having to roast out the main room. You will probably have to just rely on a couple small fans to move the air around. If there is a way to hook up a cold air return and it's sitting over a basement or crawlspace, you might be able to pull cold air from the far end of the house and that would in turn pull warm air that way.

what type of appliance do you have? free standing? add on furnace type?