replaced my RF about a month ago now, while i had the fan out (not fun to remove BTW) I painted the interior of the RF area and internal ducting. New RF works nice and quiet. Not that bad to change and I was able to re-use the original gasket.

The unfortunate part is price, I paid nearly $345.00 from USSC, the original fan motor was US made I think, the new fan is chinese and appears to be fairly cheaply made. Not sure if I could have purchased a more reasonably priced unit or not.

Last year I cleaned up my firebox and wirebrushed everything down to clean metal. instead of painting I just used stoveblack and polished it up with several coatings. looked great for about three weeks but it turned white and flaked off. One thing I worry about is these fireboxes seem a bit thin, are there concerns about it rusting through ? I thought about refractory cement or furnace cement and coating the back wall with a thin coating but think this may screw with the transfer of heat. The next thing is using a high temp primer and coating and just replace each year. Anyone have an idea what the max temp range is in the firebox ?

My fan is still making noise and once again quiet on level RF-2, i called USSC tech support and they said the bearings were probably going. $300 later I have a new fan on the way and quite a job ahead of me taking the sides off and trying to remove the left side fan. For a furnace that is only two years old it seems that each season I am replacing it piece by piece.

Anyone else replaced thier Room Fan ? is there an easy way to do it without either tearing nearly everything apart or turning myself into a contortionist.

My 6300 room fan is making a lot of noise, I am getting a rattling sound so I took the side panels off and noticed the left side RF is vibrating and making the entire furnace shake. I did my best to get in with a brush and clean out the squirell cage fan of any build up of dust or debris, it was mostly clean but for some minor dust. the shaft doesnt seem to wobble from what I can see ??

I did notice that if I run the furnace on CR 4 that once the RF 2 level kicks in the fan quiets substantially ! Time for a new fan motor ?

Help ! as I am reluctant to run the furance when I am not home.

I had a local welder make me up a deep clinker pot for my 6500 - works great -one of my reasons for switching over was that I was getting way too much fly-ash out of my pipe which covered the back of my house and deck.

I am still getting fly-ash with my clinker pot

So what can I do to cut down the annoying fly-ash/soot ? I did notice a dramatic reduction in ash all together but its really annoying having to spend nearly a day cleaning my deck and siding in the spring. I was worried that maybe it is my exhaust -

currently it comes out the back of my stove - travels 24" to a T - then vertical 6 feet, then a 90 degree elbow then out then 6 feet out to the thimble and about 3 feet beyond to a adjustable exhaust elbow.


Any ideas ??

I have the same problem, if I run my 6500 on pellets only I get smoke on shutdown. the only safe way to shut down my stove is to lift the hopper lid - stop the auger for 3-4 minutes, then close it and allow the auger to run and clear the chute of pellets. if I run corn or mix it is fine.

USSC says it cannot be done, however I was speaking with a friend and I am basically sucking all the air out of my basement and definitely having some air quality issues. I currently leave a basement window slightly cracked (at which point I am just letting cold air into the house but it seems to help a bit. The only thing I can think to do is to make a custom FAK that would enter the side of the lower ash pan area (right side of the stove - lower portion near ash pan) I would cut a hole in the outer wall - then put in a 2.5" tube (exhaust pipe etc) then cut into the ash pan outer wall area - seal the two ends of the pipe and see what I get. I would then close off the front vent on the ash pan door. only thing I could see is that it is then sucking air from the side and not directly through the ash pan like it is now. Thoughts ? The other idea is a flexible hose that goes over the front but I thought it would just be too ackward and probably not work well. I cannot imagine why USSC never put in a FAK/OAK provision on these stoves ??

Also, still seeking someone to build me a Clinker pot for my 6300 - !

olf20 wrote:


looks like from the lip of the pot down to the slider is about 4 1/2" max
width from lip to lip is 5" 9/16 length is 9" 7/16

perhaps Tallcorn could sell a kit with pieces drilled, ready for fab ?


I spoke with my local fabricator and they said they would need a run of at least 50 units to be efficient.

I am running my 6300 with a stock burn pot and no stirrer - wow much cleaner burn, more heat but I have to be careful of overflowing the pot.

I had a local fabricator make a new clinker pot for me however that was weeks and weeks ago and they have yet to make it.

Anyone with a spare or willing to build/part with one.


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all ...


Chris

Two years ago I burned a ton of Cherry pits that our local Tractor Supply had. I burned them in a clinker pot of sorts (a three bin basket type insert for a large woodfurance) I don't recall clinkers and if there was it was very small. the heat output was quite good and if mixed a bit with pellets I think I stretched the ton about a month. I would consider a 50/50 mix with corn if I could find the pits again. if I recall they are pricey.

Looking for a clinker pot. I have a shop that will make one but they have been promising for 4 months. Please PM or respond via email to chrism@vermont-unimog.com

Thanks and Happy Holidays

I recently ordered a vacuum fitting for the T on my 6300. it fits in the inner sleeve diameter somewhat but what do I do now, secure it with silicone and use a rope gasket between the inner and outer walls ?

I went through and touched up the paint on the rear interior of my stove as I said before, changed my exhaust motor with the new provided by USSC (thanks!) then checked my block off plates to make sure they were all sealed tight, put in a new 12" extension to get my exhaust a bit further out from my house. All seemed to be going along quite nicely. Started up my first burn last night. I expected a funny smell from the paint (2 weeks old and cured but you still get it after first burn). Instead I got that smell of wood/corn smoke???? I waited to see if it was just from me opening the door to light the pellets. 2 hours later I was still getting it. I checked each seam and they seem alright. I sealed where the exhaust fan attaches to the 3 inch straight pipe and the temp sensor fitting. The exhaust fan has a new fiber gasket, the only thing is where the straight exhaust pipe goes out the back of the stove there is a fitting/flange to adapt to a 4". I noticed it wobbles a bit and is held in place (outter ring only) via two rivets. once the insulated pipe is attached it seems to be perfectly tight but I wonder if I am getting leakage at the flange on the inside towards the inside of the stove ? I had that smell right around the lower portion of the stove?

Could smoke by drifting back in through my thimble ? I noticed a very slight gap around the pipe between the hi-temp rubber gasket in the wall and the actual pipe.

Another issue is my simpson 90 degree elbow, I was concerned that perhaps the elbow rotating fittings could be leaking a bit ? Should I replace with a T-type fitting (I have an extra without a clean out port)

I spent literally countless hours on end cleaning my house from top to bottom of dust/soot this spring then spent hours on end prepping my furnace.

of course my local pellet stove shop wants to sell me an entire new exhaust system with internal seals as they claim the older style simpson Duravent is prone to leaking. I just know I cannot go through another season with this thing spewing soot and smoke in my house (as I said before I was going through my room fan filters at one a week)

Vander

last year (my first burn year with a new US Stove) I switched a couple of times between pellets and corn. One morning I left for work and shut down the stove. all seemed fine so I walked away. Just happen to return home two hours later to my fire alarm in the basement going crazy. I walked down to a basement full of smoke. pellets were smoldering in the auger and up through the bin (not the pellets in the bin though) it created quite a mess and took me three hours of ventilation to get rid of the smell and smoke. I had the furnace on factory settings for pellet burning, my solution was to: be paranoid and always check the stove 30-45 minutes after shutdown and change the default auger time post shutdown for a longer interval and to push out nearly the complete auger full of pellets. seems to work but probably overkill. Nothing is more nerveracking than having a house full of smoke.

There was a user on the old forums - sign2024 who was making them but he is no longer registered (or so it says when I try to send him a private message)

I would like to get a clinker pot for my 6300 but am not sure how deep or now many holes, placement etc.

Chris M

I had a lengthy conversation last year with USSC about fresh air intake. They stated there was no provision to hook up a freshair intake for the 6300/6500 as combustion air was drawn over the ash pan. My problem is that with my basement door closed I think I am literally sucking air at a huge rate beyond the capacity of my 26x40 basement. at times I can feel air literally coming under the door of the basement. Anyone else with a 6500/6300 use an air kit , if so how did you install and hook up to this furnace?


Chris

not sure if this helps I use copper based anti-sieze compound on mine which stands up to 1600f temps. worked pretty well for me. SOmeone suggested using the bronze or copper screws. I was worried they might melt as I have no idea as to the interior temps near the baffle plate/screen.

I know when my heating contractor put in my 6300 there was some controversy about running it through my existing wood stove flue and piping. The verdict was that it would void my homeowners insurance if I did as it was considered a non-compliant install. So I went through the wall with a thimble and about 12 feet of the multifuel double wall (I bought some of it on Ebay - total investment less than $150 plus the cost of the thimble) I painted mine flat black, if you do make sure you degrease with a deglosser or solvent after you sand with a fine wool or sand paper/sanding sponge. I painted mine with a 1200F manifold flat black paint in three coats. so far so good. I touched it up this fall as it only lasts about a season then starts to flake off a bit.

did you make your own pot ?? I like that idea cleaning out the clinkers every few hours drove me insane last year. I was getting to the point of just opening the door as quickly as i could and pulling the clinkers out and down the clean out. probably not the best idea and only added to my soot issues, however shutting down the stove waiting for it to cycle down and then cleaning it out and starting again was a major pain in the butt.