Gleason Avery is supposed to be a good replacement motor if they have yours. www.gleasonavery.com/acmotors/index.htm

Amazon is another good place www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=se...%3A80456+auger+motor

Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/US-UNITED-STATES-STOVE-...;hash=item19d90ed015

All good reasons for sure. Thanks, and please keep us updated on any issues that you have....good or bad as I know there are others who are probably interested.

Thanks Again!

Sounds like it's working very well for you!

Were you considering any other furnaces beside this one, and if so what made you choose this one? I am going to be looking to upgrade before next winter and am curious to see how this unit keeps working for you.

Thanks for any input you may have, now or in the future.

How do you like NOT being able to see the how the fire is burning with the solid door on the 8500? Seems like that would drive me nuts not being able to see how it's burning.

Glad to hear it's working out good for you so far!

I am going to guess that the controls are similar to my 6500 to some degree and would think that you should be able to slow the feed rate down by going in and changing the feed rate per hour setting. Probably need to call and talk to a tech at USSC on how to do that unless someone here knows how to do it.

Sorry, that's my best guess.

I am interested to see how this model works out in the long run especially on how well they have everything sealed up as far as pulling soot into the room fan blower and blowing it around like mine and other USSC models did until we did some sealing that the factory didn't do!

So you are tapped into the main return duct that the main heat supply of the house uses if I understand you correctly. I was always under the impression that if you tap into the house duct work you would want to tap into the supply air duct no? I believe that is what the directions also show in my manual.

Sounds and looks to me as though you are pushing all your hot/warm air from the pellet furnace, through the rest of the main house's return duct,(cold and uninsulated) through the electric furnace,(which if off, is cold and air flow restrictive)then into the supply duct that feeds the house and rooms. After it does all that I can only imagine how much heat and air flow you have lost especially if the electric furnace isn't running at the same time the pellet furnace is.

Not sure if you need an OAK as well. My USSC6500 didn't come with an OAK hook up and I believe it is close to the same unit as yours. There are a lot of factors as to why you are only able to heat the house to 69. Floor plan layout, home insulation, are just a few of the things that could be your problem.

I am curious though as to what exactly do you mean by I have adjusted the air temp to 180

Thanks guy's!

Yeah, I hope this will take care of it. ....time will tell.

Well I finally got around to looking at my unit and found a few areas that USSC didn't silicone between the room fans and the combustion fan chambers. Otherwise everything looked good. In this pic you can see where the light is shining through from the room fan compartment below,also the plate to the right needed silicone on the back side that you can't see in the 1st pic.

I'm not sure where the area is that needs to be welded.....(from what I think I have read somewhere on here). I guess I will see how this works and go from there.

When you are in there just start looking for seams and places that USSC didn't silicone and I don't think you can go wrong by sealing it up.

Got it!

Thanks again for all the info, I appreciate it!!

Oh, I thought the "plates" were already there it was just a matter of "if" USSC sealed the plates or not.I didn't know I had to make them or get them from USSC......Am I understanding you correctly now?

Thanks.

Thanks Tin,

I will have to check on those things and go from there. As far as the plates go....do I need to silicone the seams or are you saying there should be a rubber gasket of some sort in there between the plates as well?

Could you please tell me the best way to get at the plates or do I need to tear the whole thing down. Trying to avoid as much down time as possible with oil being so expensive I hate using it any more than I have to.

Also do you know if USSC reimburses for the work that should have been done at the factory?.....I know not the sealing of the flue pipes but the O ring and the plate sealing?

Thanks Again!!

I am starting to notice the soot issue getting to be a little too much here in my shop. Do I understand it right that there is no known fix for this? Or it's more involved than it's worth.

Is there a specific way I should approach USSC on this or should I just let them know I am having soot problems and that "I know" there are issues with this stove.

I appreciate any new info or suggestions you guy's may have.

Thanks!

So Bone,how does removing the agitator make it perform better? Just curious as I will try it with mine if it heats better that way.

You say your house is now 75 during the day and around 70 at night........what was it before you removed the agitator? Did you adjust your feed rate and make other adjustments as well?

I am having the same problem minus the carnage. I am finishing up a ton of Hammers that are producing clinkers that I have never had before. Last year burning Green Team I had no problems and should have stayed with them.This season I figured I would step up to a better/hotter pellet and now I am running into the same problem as you with the clinkers blocking the back air holes in the pot below the feed tube area.

If the pot weren't so shallow I could make the fingers on the agitator longer to reach the back of the pot and probably scrape it better in that area and break them up.

Good Luck intensedrive!

So I am guessing the answer is no on anyone else making them other than USSC. I'm not happy with mine.